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El Ateneo

4.5 (97 reviews)

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Tyler L.

I'd seen this bookstore show up on the internet as an "attraction" of the city. It turns out that this is not just any bookstore. This location used to be a theatre since the early 1900s and was later converted into a bookstore in 2000. However, the architecture was preserved during the conversion. This place was named the most beautiful bookstore in the world by National Geographic and it was easy to see why. The stage has been turned into a cafe and the ceiling has a beautiful frescoed dome. The entire place is also surrounded by intricate balconies. It looked just like the fancy Broadway theatres I have seen in New York. I am glad I stopped by even though I had no interest in buying a book.

Doug L.

This was one of the most crowded but beautiful bookstores I've visited in all my travels. The bookstore took over a former theatre and left much of the splendid design and architecture in place and seemed successful in merging both. The stage was turned into a cafe that was busy that afternoon. It served coffee and light dishes. As others pointed out, the second floor was one of the best locations to take the views all in and take photos. It also was slightly less crowded upstairs but also had some seating to relax and read a book. The ground floor was best for the views up to the painted ceiling. I stayed for less than 20 minutes.

Shirley N.

This bookstore is amazing. What was a theater has transformed into a bookstore. Voted in 2019 as the world's most beautiful bookstore by National Geographic. Our trip leader dropped those of us interested in seeing it. We were to made our own way back to our hotel. We only went in to take our obligatory picture as did many others. The 2d floor provided the best spot. After taking several shots we made our way out. There is bathroom facility if needed.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Ernie H.

You don't really need me to tell you to come here right? The fact that you're checking this Yelp means you're debating it - well don't debate just show up. It's worth it. This is one of the most beautiful bookstores you're ever going to see and it's located in Buenas Aires cosmopolitan area so you can indulge in some retail therapy. My pictures will do it no justice.

Entrance
Teresa M.

What can you say about El Ataneo the most spectacular beautiful bookstore in the world named by National Geographic. Loved roaming thru all the floors so divine and the reading nooks throughout. One of my favorite places in Buenos Aires.

The architecture is spectacular. The gift store prices are outrageous. A 4" x 4" notebook was $80 each. Check prices before getting in line to checkout. The café is not good at all. They dont know how to make ice cofffees...very bland and no taste.

Yes, this is a bookstore!
Veronique C.

Impressive bookstore in what used to be a beautiful theater. The boxes at the end of the balconies are for reading. There is a coffeeshop in the back to relax and enjoy the atmosphere with a yummy pastries.

Irene E.

A little impressed at first, but then not really impressed. 71.2% (2020) of books are sold online, physical bookstores seem on the decline, closing than opening. Another stat is North America has 32.9% of the world book market (2021). This bookstore is in Barrio Norte. The theater opened in 1919, with 1050 seating. The converted bookstore was opened in 2000s, the stage is now a cafe. According to wikipedia, it sold 700,000 books in 2007 and 1 million people visit it annually.  It made some waves in 2008 and 2019. But isn't that impressive. Old, in a sense that it needs repair. Big tour buses park outside is a huge turn off. A Korean group was there. They juggling for photo ops, and chit chat rather loudly ... this kind of behavior just not mesh with a bookstore. Beside, how many of them will buy a Spanish language book? Tranquility is what a bookstore needs.

Inside
Michael C.

A book lover's dream! An old theatre converted into an absolutely enormous bookstore and cafe. I couldn't shopped here for a full day!

Heather A.

As a booklover there is something magical about seeing such a beautiful place filled with books but beyond the building and the natural beauty of books to a booklover it is a mediocre bookstore. It lacks the well thought out displays I love about independent bookstores and while there were a vast number of categories of books, the books within those catergories were disorganized. I was looking for manga and poetry while I was there. The manga series were not in numerical order and the poetry was all a jumble with the same copy of books on different shelves. I was willing to sift through the titles to find what I was looking for but when I sat to try and look through the bottom two shelves an employee informed me I couldn't sit on the floor. I have no idea how anyone would possibly find a slim volume of poetry on the bottommost shelf without sitting down. I love a nice bookstore cafe and this one had the set up for a great one being set on the stage but the area was just a collection of standard tables and chairs. I did appreciate that some of the original stage lighting mechanisms were still there but beyond that if you weren't looking out into the main bookstore area you'd think you were in a bland cafe lacking much character. I did appreciate that the prices didn't seem steep in the cafe, that the cafe's wait staff was amazing, and that the staff didn't seem concerned if you only made a small purchase. Overall its worth visiting but if you are looking to shop for books there are several more on that same block alone that lack the beauty but have far more character and better books.

Chris C.

This is an amazing bookstore housed in a repurposed old palatial theater. The architecture and lavish decor and maybe the cafe are the main attraction for anyone not looking for books in Spanish. However being a huge bookstore they don't necessarily have everything - we were looking for a particular book in paperback but they only had it in hardcover.

El Ateneo - Panoràmic Interior
Nelson M.

El Ateneo Gran Splendid was very interesting to say the least. So apparently this was an old theatre that was repurposed as a pretty eclectic bookstore. They have about four levels including the ground level that are chock full of books on all sorts of topics in the Spanish language. They also have a pretty good cafe on the ground floor where you can get all the staple Argentinian cafe items if you are in the mood for a coffee, latte, alfajor or empanada. Truthfully I prefer for these types of structures to be retained for their original purpose (if at all possible) but I guess if it is between tearing something historical apart or repurposing, I think they really did it justice in making this a bookstore as it was tastefully done. Pretty sure this is one of the largest and best bookstores in Buenos Aires, so unless you are looking for something niche, this is the bookstore to visit, peruse and possibly try out your Spanish with some of the other visitors at the Cafe! I highly recommend that you walk if you are staying in the area as parking is very problematic; however, if walking is not your thing or you are not in the area you should catch an UBER or take a taxi. UBER is better as no need to haggle on the fare. Driving and parking in Buenos Aires especially in this district can be very challenging. If you plan on visiting the bookstore, plenty of other things to see in that local area so you may want to plan to hang out for a bit and do a little exploring. Wishing you all a great time in Argentina, be safe and happy exploring. Bonne chance mes amis!

Danielle P.

Indeed the most beautiful bookstore in the world!! Old theater converted to a bookstore, if you like to read this is your spot. I walked to this bookstore from Panamericano Hotel Buenos Aires, its not to far. It has several levels with stairs and a elevator. Its amazing place to browse and just relax a few. They have a small section of English books. Very similar to Barnes & Noble in the US. They do have a coffees shop. This should be on your list of must sees in BA.

El Ateneo -7/9/2023

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El Ateneo Reviews in Other Languages

Review Highlights - El Ateneo

This place is an old theater that they gutted, tore out the seats, and left all the other parts to become a book store!

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El Ateneo - libraries - Updated May 2026

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