This 2-story meat, fish, and vegetable market is located on Calle Sagasta - not Calle San Blas as one might expect. I was drawn to this place in particular as the only review I could find online mentioned two fairly unique dishes: embuchados (coiled goat intestines) and a stew made with skinned pig face and snout. I have a thing about trying anything new and unusual at least once so the opportunity to try these dishes was too good to pass up.
Sadly, my hopes were dashed when I realised this was a "stock the kitchen" type of market not a "stuff your belly" one. Still, any market is worth a look-see so we wandered around breathing in the fresh herb-scented air and ogling the succulent legs of ham hanging around us.
Prices are pretty good here with 300g of Jamón Bellota costing a mere €9. We picked up a kilo of paraguayos (par-a-hi-yo-s) which are flat peaches that look like mini-pumpkins wearing a peach skin. GET SOME OF THESE! When ripe, these are the juiciest sweetest peaches you will ever taste. And at €2-3 per kilo, an absolute steal. They will seduce even the most die-hard of meat eaters (aka me) away from the display of hams - yes they are just that good. Quick tip - to determine if they are in the right stage of ripeness, squeeze them gently without bruising the skin. You are looking for peaches with just a tiny bit of give. Too much give and you'll have an unpleasant mushy texture with a faded sweetness. Too firm and it's like biting into an apple - some sweetness but none of the joy.
For pre- and post- market snacking, you are conveniently located next to Calle del Laurel which hosts a number of tapas/pintxos bars in the afternoon/evening. For the mornings, head towards the cathedral in the centre of town. The main road leading up to the church (should be on your left if heading from the market) boasts a number of bars with an excellent selection of breakfast tapas such as bocadittos which are mini baguette buns filled with anything from ham to tortilla to scrambled eggs and chorizo. Delicious! read more
