Drelyse was my first taste of West African cuisine and it was simply amazing. I discovered this place via Yelp and, once again, Yelp did not let me down! Pronounced Dreh-Leez, it's a little restaurant in the center of Tamarack Circle in North Columbus. The owners used to run a restaurant in Ghana, so the authenticity is unquestionable.
The dining room had six 4-person tables, not huge, but it didn't need to be. The interior was very Mom-and-Pop, nice but not fancy. We arrived and started looking at the menu (available online at www.Drelyse.com) and everything sounded great. We threw ourselves on the mercy of our host, the husband of the owner and a wonderful food guide. So kind and attentive, he did his best to steer us 'first-timers' to flavors more suited to the Western palate, but we assured him that we were foodies who had come for authentic food. He then, happily, pointed out the local favorites, local to Ghana that is.
As we went over the menu, he brought 2 small bowls of soup for us to sample (like I said, he was very kind). One was goat soup and the other was peanut-butter beef soup and both had a few small bits of FuFu in it, a starchy, doughy dumpling. We tasted and swapped and decided they were both terrific. Drinking right from the bowl, the broths were so very rich and deep in flavor that I almost forgot to share. The beef soup was spicy and the goat soup was spicier, but neither was overly spicy and the flavor of the soup was complimented not overwhelmed, just enough to put a little sweat on the brow. We grabbed a pair of Tusker ales/beers, from Kenya, to wash it all down and it went well with the spicy food. Tusker is similar to Guinness, dark, strong, with a slightly nutty back-note.
Our host explained that West African food is eaten with the hands and asked if we wanted silverware. We decided to remain true to the food. If it's to be eaten with your hands, so be it! He brought over a small ceramic basin of soapy water. We dipped our hands and gave them a quick wash. He then produced a ceramic jug of clean water which he poured over our hands to rinse them. I love a good food ritual, so this was fun and elegant at the same time.
The samples really hadn't helped because now we wanted to taste everything! In the end, we decided on Sambusa and Vitumbua for appetizers. Sambusa is a small flaky pastry filled with spiced meat (and I mean filled, more meat than pastry) and served with a spicy-sweet sauce. Crisp and deliciously meaty. The Vitumbua was a dense, chewy fried dough muffin/biscuit/cake, lightly sweet but also savory at the same time. A great start!
We chose Goat Soup and Jollof Rice with Chicken for our entrees. Our host brought out two steaming plates plus a softball-sized bread round. The bread round was actually a dish called Banku and it's a sticky ball of fermented cassava dough that felt very much like uncooked bread dough (just MUCH stickier, you have to eat it off your fingers or you'll never get it off). Grab a sticky wad of Banku, use it to grab a piece of meat from the soup, and eat both. Banku has a potato-ish taste and goes great with their soup. Tasty and fun! The Jollof Rice was bright red with a lovely sauce on top and I have never tasted rice with that much flavor before. No tableware, so the banku was used to eat the rice too. The tomatoes and onions on top of the chicken were spectacular and I cannot pretend to know how they made them taste so good. Maybe they were pickled, might be magic, but they were far tastier than the plain onion and tomato they seemed to be. The chicken, ah the chicken, I don't know what spices were on it, but it was really tender and so good. Packed with flavor through and through, not just a coating, but a permeated flavor that made for some really good eating right down to the last morsel!
I'm a pretty big eater, but, since every bite included some banku, I filled up long before I cleaned my plate And I really wanted to clean my plate! And I wanted to clean the plates of the people sitting next to us (their fish dish looked awesome, takes 40 minutes to cook, so call ahead for that). I really wanted to be hungry again so I could order other items from the menu, but I was so stuffed that I didn't have room for dessert (or a deep breath).
We repeated the hand-washing ritual again to clean up, but I wish I hadn't because, now, hours later, I would be happy if my hands tasted and smelled like their amazing food.
I can honestly say it was better than finger licking good, it was lick-your-friend's-fingers good. Heck, it was knock-your-Momma-down good (yeah it's THAT good). I am looking forward to tasting every item on their menu, so I'm already planning a return trip. And it's only five minutes from my house! If you hit Drelyse, and I think you should, you'll probably see me there with a handful of food and a big smile on my face! read more