I was intent on trying one more time to wrangle a really good paella. I'm a single traveler and…read morestruck out on the beach front restaurants since everywhere requires a person to buy paella for two. Walking up and out of the Túria Gardens, I was on the edge of the old city and El Almudįn was only a few blocks away.
When I arrived, the 5 sidewalk tables were taken and, peeking inside, I asked whether they might have a table for one. The waitress/hostess smiled a big welcome and immediately placed me at a table set for two. I ordered some water and beer, and settled in to look at the menu. She asked if Alhambra brand was okay and brought out their special reserve. Okay, we're on the right track.
As expected, paellas showed a price for one but required a purchase for two. Marga came over, saw me pining over the paella page and with complete magnanimity explained, "It's still early and if you'd like a paella for one, we can make it!" She was twanging on my heartstrings. I ordered the real, the original, and the only authentic Valencian paella. Marga looked at me, like she'd heard this before, and asked if I had either an aversion or allergy to snails? Nope. Bring 'em on!
Everything they cook is made at order time and uses fresh ingredients from the Mercado Central next door. It was going to take 30 minutes to prepare the paella so I started with a gazpacho. It was so flavorful and fresh I could have just eaten another three and gone home content. Patience, patience.
I had been editing my photos and earlier travel when the paella came up. It was served in the hot paellaera which sat insulated on top of cardboard egg cartons. Marga let me know that Valencianos eat their paella straight from the paellaera. She proceeded to hand me a toothpick which, she said, was for digging out the caracoles (snails) from their shells. Now I'm living!!
As I noted the rabbit she quickly said, yes, this is totally traditional; rabbit, chicken and caracoles. While I chowed down on this deliciousness, I also noted the flat broad beans, the fava (fabia) beans, the aromatic saffron and the savory rosemary. Wow. And the best part? Around the entire edge of the paellaera, there was socarrat!! That crunchy but not hard, nearly caramelized rice. OMG!!!
In the meantime, I'd asked Marga for a glass of dry white to accompany the meal. With perfect selection, she brought me a Las Dos Ces, white. Forty minutes go by and I'm rubbing my distended belly in perfect contentment. Marga showed up as if on cue, knowing full well I couldn't resist dessert.
I ordered the Arnadí, pungent caramel pumpkin pudding cake served with vanilla ice cream with stripings of fruta del bosque. That, along with a café cortado. And of course, Marga steps up with a complimentary shot of Mistela - Valencian sweet wine resembling a strong moscato.
What a wonderful and happy ending to my day.