Afternoon tea at Doja Tea Room in Portland offers a study in contrasts. On the plate, there is real brilliance: an inventive summer menu that marries global flavors with the traditions of teatime. The sandwiches are standouts, particularly a chimichurri roast beef enlivened by black garlic aioli and a tom yum chicken salad layered with nectarine and roasted peanuts-flavors both bold and refreshingly unexpected. The scones, paired with clotted cream, lemon curd, and jam, arrive warm and tender, everything one hopes for in a classic centerpiece. And the pastries-whether a butter mochi with mango and coconut drizzle or a cornmeal cake topped with blackberry curd and honey crème fraîche-are delicate, thoughtful, and deeply satisfying.
Yet the charm ends with the food. Service is perfunctory, at times even brusque, with the odd neglect of basics like refilling water.
For a ritual built around leisurely indulgence, the clipped attitude feels especially discordant. The space, too, leaves something to be desired. While the menu speaks in the language of imagination, the room itself struggles to match it; the lack of atmosphere and minimal decoration give the experience a flatness that no amount of culinary finesse can quite overcome.
Doja Tea Room, then, is a paradox: a kitchen that understands the pleasures of afternoon tea, paired with a front-of-house and setting that do not. Go for the food-it's worth it-but do not expect the full embrace of hospitality that makes teatime linger in the memory. read more