Le Centre by Georges (Blanc, who is the Wolfgang Puck of France) is a modern, hip, two story, airy,…read morebright, cheerful, stark red and gray hall with clean lines, and soon, clean plates. An aged wood floor adds character and job security for the clean up crew. There is a scattering of the ubiquitous kitchen kitsch for decor. It's really a Euro-Steakhouse that wants to be a French Bistro. The front of the house has large windows so you can look at the looky loos looking at you like stray dogs staring at the Butcher Shop display case.
At 7:00 PM it's as quiet as viewing the Last Supper at Forest Lawn Cemetery in LA and by 8:30 PM it's as rockin' as Death and Co. Bar in NYC.
The restaurant is part of the Carlton Hotel which feeds the place clientele wanting to be fed.
The Vibe: Who goes there? Timid hotel guests, timid American touristiques, timid business travelers, and a few bold locals willing to share space with the timid, however, the kitchen is not timid at all.
The Staff: Used to timid people and a few like yours truly. So, hail a waiter and get your Kir Royale Cassis going and before your aperitif shows up a plate of Gougere for each diner is set down within fingers reach. They aren't from the oven but were made sometime during the morning prep. (They should be as warm as a puppy in the sun). No big deal that they ain't as they disappeared quickly.
The Bar Program: It's a full bar, but you're in Lyon so stick to some wine from the comprehensive wine list like the Poive et Sol Saint Joseph Beaujolais by Francois Villard 2015. There, that's all taken care of for you.
The Food: There is a daily set menu and a variety of ala carte options offering all the sides you'd see at Morton's.
First, the Caesar Salad winked at me. At this point let me address the recent Yelperette who complained about the "nasty fish" in her salad. These were Anchovies which, of course, belong in a Caesar Salad. Poor thing is used to the salad bar at Chipotles. Ignore her. No anchovies in a Caesar Salad is like buying a new Renault and telling the dealer to deliver it without tires. Hail to this Caesar. It was cold, garlic-y, cheese-y, and laced with sublime anchovies. So there!
The Eggplant Parmigian was very French in an Italian sort of way. But then Italy got the haute cuisine ball rolling 500 years ago. But let us not nit pick. It was delicious. It was a lovely construction of thin Eggplant strips woven together like a tapestry around and over melted Parmesan (which would be great over Dust Bunnies), all settled in a pudding thick puddle of Marinara. Frenchmen, thank your Italian Brothers and this brave kitchen for bringing this to you...and me.
The Double Sirloin were half inch beefy slices sliced fanned out and and nicely cooked medium. Was it the equal of Cut in LA? (Wofgang Puck's place, who is the Georges Blanc of the USA). Nope, but then what is? The meat was lean and oh so tasty. It was served with excellent Frites that were hard to beat(s). Ask politely and a cup of Bearnaise (my guilty pleasure. I would eat that on Ice Cream or my Sport Coat), Peppercorn and/or Horseradish Sauces as dense as hair pomade are delivered and they do deliver as well.
The Mac and Comte Cheese was an impulse buy, like the Dark Chocolate Ginger Strips at the check out stand in Trader Joes but this worked out a whole lot better than most of the things I've done on an impulse.
The Vegetable Caponata (Ratatouille) was also satisfying. It was a good balance to the balance of the meal, as otherwise you are just eating Meat n' Fries which is okay with me if pressed. The fresh Vegetables stayed that way even though they were mixed with a light Tomato Sauce.
Cheese? Of course, but alas, after weeks in France I was cheesed out, but not yet overloaded on Desserts. Gotta have something sugary like a Mint on your pillow or tender a kiss goodnight? Right? Right. With luck you get both. I'll turn my cheek but won't turn up my nose at something sweet after dinner...or any other time, for that matter.
So, for me it was Chocolate Ice Cream and Apple Sorbet as tart as the privileged. Besides, Ice Cream and Sorbet, I miss you so, so I signed up for this combo which reminded me of something you'd get at the County Fair only that would be deep fried.
This place was fine, no frills, filling, French food doing an impression of a Stateside Brasserie.
Next time, I'm in Lyon, I'll draw a Blanc.
