Eating with the locals in Portugal - northern edition (1 of 2)…read more
It was later in the evening and I was laying my head down in Porto instead of Vila Nova de Gaia, which is atypical for me. I asked where to get some fairly priced and good grub that locals would definitely like. I was given this name - Capa Negra II - and, since they know they can be nasal and enunciate differently from the other Iberians, this young lady wrote it down for me.
Capa Negra II was nearby and on the busy street that buses use to go from the Casa da Musica Metro over the Ponte Arrabida to the south shore. I had thus been by it numerous times. I took note that they offered many things, but are best known for their Francesinha. Even though Francesinha approximates "little Frenchie" in Portuguese, it is said to have been born in the Porto area. It is a sandwich inside which there are pressed layers of different pork and cured meats and it is covered in a complex sauce including cheese, tomato sauce, beer, port wine, spices, and then some. It is usually topped with an egg. They are very nice to look at, albeit almost decadent.
I have a short history with the Francesinha. Years ago, I notice a place that looked like Capa Negra II and on that very same row of eateries that was hopping in the evenings and I went in there to get a Francesinha. (I don't know why that similar place is no longer open.) The sandwich was just like I have described above except that there were peppercorns in the meat that, in my opinion, were nasty and I had to open it up to work around them. It was thus the only time I had eaten a Francesinha.
The waiter was mild mannered and I told him I only needed to verify one thing. I always try to put together some words in the local lingo because I want to ... and because I want to be far from being an "ugly American." I was adamant about there being no peppercorns in my Francesinha. I said something like, "Tem issas coisas pequenas negras e picante dentro a carne? ... nao quiero ... nao gosto." He quickly understood my issue and indicated there would not be any. Now, here, I was an idiot an asked for "batatas cocidas!" I should have just accepted the traditional fries that accompany the sandwich given how many times I've had Big Boy and Big Mac combos. I washed it all down with a soft drink.
I was happy that I gave the Francesinha another chance. Mind you, you cannot do this often. It was robust, tasty, and, since you might eat only that, it will be filling without completely bogging you down. I liked the waiter and his politeness. The price was fair. The restaurant was modern, simple, comfortable, and airy, even though it was in the evening. Finally, there was a queue because it was full and you had to give the host your name. They stuck to it and got me seated quickly. I really appreciated the fairness and even handedness of all this and it's usually this way in Portugal, especially in its north.
Their Francesinha is good and they have many other choices. It's not fine dining. I would almost describe Capa Negra II as a glassier modern tavern. There is another "branch" in the center and there may be more tourists at that one. I do like this newer part of the city, you will be eating with locals, and I recommend this restaurant.
