I have another tip for you while you are in Baja - take a day trip to the small town of El Triunfo. Go up there in the morning and have breakfast at Caffe El Triunfo, walk around for a few hours (check out the piano museum, the ruins of the silver mines, the church, etc.) and come back to Caffe El Triunfo for lunch. You probably won't be very hungry yet, but you will be glad you came back again.
El Triunfo is a small silver mining town about 45 minutes south of La Paz and about 55 minutes north of Todos Santos. It is right on Highway 1 - so heading from Todos Santos you go about 45 KM north on Highway 19 until you see an overpass - it is the ONLY turnoff/overpass you will have seen since leaving TS - there is nothing else out there - the locals call this "the Y" (except they say it in Spanish). Hang a right and you will be heading SE up into the mountains. You will pass the Cactus Sanctuary (Santuario de los Cactus) and a few minutes later you will roll into town - be careful not to roll right through it, it is pretty small.
Caffe El Triunfo is the only place to eat and well worth the trip - it is a culinary delight amongst the rubble of the silver mines - dare I call it "the silver lining"? They serve breakfast and lunch and make incredible breads for which people drive from TS and La Paz to get for their special holiday meals. And they are open every day - 365 days a year.
The Caffe was opened by Mark Spahr 7 or so years ago. Don't worry about the details, when you go you will likely meet him and he will probably graciously tell you his entire story (as he did with us that morning, and was doing that with another couple when we came back for lunch). While the Caffe has only been open for less than 10 years, Mark has been baking breads of various types for over 25 years, and his expertise certainly shows through the end product.
When you walk in you will be greeted by the sights and smells of tarts, sticky buns, and various other wonderful looking breakfast pastries - but hold fast. Pause, enjoy, and maybe order a café Latte, but then keep on going to where the real breakfast awaits - the patio in the back. They have eggs, steak, bacon, and all the goodies - and yes, the wonderful breads from the front.
When you are done with breakfast go explore, because I guarantee you took a peak at the lunch menu and decided to come back. For lunch you can get one of his excellent pizzas cooked in the brick oven, a steak sandwich on his excellent bread, or maybe the homemade ravioli. All of it is great.
But before you go, or when you come back for lunch, walk around and enjoy what Mark has done with the place, watch the birds in the bushes, look at the pictures in the small side room, and enjoy the art displayed throughout the building - much of it there to honor the Chinese who worked the mines.
This place is truly a treat and worth the short drive away from the beaches of Baja into the equally interesting mountain region. read more