With a low key recommendation from a friend to stop in scenic and a more enthusiastic one from the clerk at the natural grocery in Hot Springs, I loaded up my new provisions and drove past the old Wild West brick buildings toward Custer State Park. I had no idea what to expect and noticed that the scenery definitely changed - more altitude, more trees - it just got prettier and prettier.
It seemed like I got there very quickly and found a ranger station at the entry to the Wildlife Loop. I asked about tent camping and places to swim - and the man at the gate was (again!) incredibly helpful. He told me that there were also little cabins and brought me a park brochure open to the page of accommodation options - it was like $50 for one night in a little cabin, so the man brought me a phone and dialed me into the reservations line. I got a cabin in the Blue Bell campground and made my way there to drop off my gear, so I could go drive all around without having all my stuff on the motorcycle. I tootled off and had a fabulous ride through the park and even visited the wee town of Custer for additional provisions (beer!).
On my return, the camp host was outside his RV. I pulled up and cut the engine, flipped up my visor and called out his name, "Are you Vern?" He looked at me, put his thumbs into his belt loops and smiled, walked over slowly and said in a distinctive Tennessee drawl, "you know, it has always been a fantasy of mine to have a woman come up on a motorcycle and call out my name!"
Then he burst into a gale of laughter and I introduced myself. We had a nice little chat - his wife was out of town visiting her mother, and he was on his own. He gave me tips on riding around the bison - he said, "they hate the sound of Harleys!" The mating season had just finished, so I would see larger males hanging around odd places - just trying to have some distance between them and the demands of the wimmenfolk in their herds. My camp host regaled me with stories about motorcycle travel from his younger years. He discovered that going with a group of 3 or 4 friends and seeking out state park cabins (like the one I had rented here) or at KOA campgrounds was a tremendous value - they usually are very cheap and sleep up to 4 people, all you need is bedding and cooking gear, saving lots of weight and hassle in packing gear and worrying about rainstorms. I have to say - I think the man was right! Staying in the little cabin was really a delight - though I found it a bit chilly that night in my 55 degree rated sleeping bag.
The camp host also hipped me to the correct direction for driving on 16A to Mt Rushmore - if you go toward Mt Rushmore on that road, you get to see the monument through the cool stone tunnels -- which I missed that afternoon because I went away from Mt Rushmore on that road - enjoying the tunnels and forests but not the view.
The little cottage was absolutely neat as a pin and perfect - it was comfortable with a picnic table, porch and fire ring outside - a small table and shelves inside. I was pretty close to the bathrooms which were "family style" - so beware of mom & two kids getting in there before you and spending 3 hours in there.
I'm looking forward to visiting Custer SP again - and hope to land a cabin at Blue Bell - it's a really excellent place to stay! read more