For openers, if you think the best barbecue is usually found in the worst part of town, in a place with bars on the windows, and just enough grease on the table to your initials - then this isn't it.
If, on the other hand, you're on the interstate somewhere the Florida/Georgia line is almost still within eyesight, here's a joint worth finding. "Joint," in this case, is not just the Brown Shoe Gourmet's favorite way of identifying good eating barbecue, but also in the name of joint: Big Nick's BBQ, Soul Food, Cajun Juke Joint at 1201 Baytree Road in Valdosta.
For a guy who has spent a lifetime in pursuit of the perfect barbecue (read my more than 125 barbecue reviews from across the country on Yelp), this place is a contradiction. When you think of a "joint," you're thinking of some hole in the wall. Not so, this place is a former pool hall updated into a restaurant and entertainment center. Comedy one night, live music another and karaoke. Ten years in Valdosta, a year in this location maybe a couple stones' throws away from the old one.
Big Nick (there really is one), apparently figures he needs to be all things to all people has a menu that goes from fresh oysters and nachos, to turkey legs and Cajun pasta. When you have good barbecue, which they do, you really don't need all that. Who goes to Valdosta in search of fresh oysters?
We opted for their Big Deal Combo: three meats, cornbread and a side for $24... more than enough for two folks. We threw caution to the wind and got collards as well.
First, the sides; the slaw reminded us of the great slaw KFC used to have: finely chopped, full flavor. The collards were world class. Easy to over cook collards, they didn't. The fries, our server (more about her in a minute) confessed came to the kitchen frozen.
Now to the meats or the meal. The ribs paced the pack. A unique rub that made for great flavor, cooked low and slow (we're betting over oak) moist and full flavor St. Louis cut. The brisket we received was dry and quickly replaced by our server (more about her a few inches down) with juicy, 10 to 12 hours smoked brisket. The pulled pork came in generous helping, moist, tasty but with the fat (which captures the smoke flavor) rendered out. Good, very but not great. Go for the ribs and make sure you order the cornbread rather than the Texas toast, Twas world class.
A complaint: their sauce (unique combination of mustard, tomato sauce , vinegar and who knows what else) comes in one of little (very) cups. They'll bring more but why not put a bottle on the table and save the server (from coming) running back and forth.
No room for their "Sweet to thy taste peach cobbler. An hur further down the highway, wee wished we had.
Every once in awhile when you eat out, particularly in barbecue joints, you come across someone who is really unique and makes the visit all the more enjoyable. That was Moria. Commented how good the ribs were; "I made them," she said. Noted the great cornbread; he response, "I made it." Pulled pork was right on target; guess who said, "I made it." Told the first offering of brisket was dry; "Don't know who was responsible." Would you like to guess who said they made cornbread and sauce?
Friendly, big smile, a great sense of humor and quick to made sure we had everything include the better brisket, more sauce, a second serving of cornbread and finally, without us even asking, drinks to go.
One other thing: the restrooms were really clean. That can be important when you travel.
Big Nick's Juke Joint (serving a lot of food beyond barbecue) gets 4 /12 stars for some really good 'cue and the final half star for a server who made our visit memorable. A rare five star rating from a guy who spent a lifetime in pursuit of the perfect barbecue. read more