Julie MacLeod needs no introduction (Masterchef 2014) and neither does her restaurant (2018 The…read moreList Eating & Drinking Awards). I noticed it first walking past it on a winter's evening. Huddles of people waiting patiently in the Glasgow drizzle, looking in at happy faces behind the glass looking out. Nearly always full, midweek or weekend.
There's no booking. We expected to wait but, surprisingly, it was less than half full on a Sunday lunchtime. An hour later, though, there was not a spare seat in sight. They do have a booking system that lets you know when your table is ready.
'Kopitiam' translates to coffee shop. In Malaysia, it's an informal restaurant: formica tables, open kitchen, minimal decor, a small menu with good quality food at reasonable prices. In that sense, Julie's delivers. It's a tiny space, barely 20 covers, and the kitchen is a nook but for all that, it's cheerful, informal and means service is immediate. The playlist is old-school Motown, soul and funk. I approve.
A friendly greeting and we were quickly seated. Menus were produced in a dash. A useful talk through the changes on the day followed. The bill of fare is not extensive. In my book, that's a good thing. Much promised often means much disappointment.
My companion is Malaysian so we opted for the small plate 'nasi lemak' to share followed by a 'nasi goreng' for her and 'pork belly mee broth' for me.
Nasi lemak was as near to the real thing as we've had in the UK. Fragrant, slightly sticky rice cooked in coconut milk and panda (screwpine) leaf served with a splash of spicy sambal, fried anchovies (ikan bills), boiled egg, peanuts and crisp slices of cucumber. Sounds bizarre but it isn't. Overall, very nicely done.
Pork belly noodle broth: a decent broth with rice noodles, a couple of leaves of bok choi, with a bit of backbone to it, a soft-boiled egg and (the star) roasted pork belly flavoured with Chinese five spice. A winning combination.
Prawn nasi goreng: rice well cooked, not overdone, having a bit of a bite to it and a pleasant smoky edge, prawns well cooked and slivers of cabbage adding a textural contrast.
Altogether the food was well done though slightly under-seasoned for our taste. We asked for some soy sauce which was brought to the table by Julie herself. She suggested that a little chilli prawn paste might also enhance the flavour. We happily agreed and she was right. It certainly boosted the 'zing' element of it.
Allergies are well catered for. The table next to ours had a few. Julie took care to speak to them in person. It's not possible in such a small space to guarantee the food will be free of a particular allergen but she took care to talk through the options and what was delivered gave no room for disappointment.
£23 for three dishes is not cheap but well worth the money. The whole enterprise deserves to succeed, not least for being a fresh take on dining that moves away from franchised catering, that delivers an individualised, almost curated take on traditional cuisine and where the experience is direct, personal and unfussy.