A lot of digital ink has been spilled here on Yelp about THE best bagels in Lyon. And I guess I'm…read moreready to pipe up about it too.
What's funny is that this is one of the first places I'd eaten out here, but am just now getting around to reviewing.
As an expat from New York, seeing our North American junk food fetishized in France--a country and originator of culinary wonders--is surreal, funny, comforting and homesick inducing.
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HITS--
a) friendly service
b) very fast
c) kitchy decor, pricey 'foreign' groceries
d) Hellman's mayonnaise (ha ha, even I like junk food sometimes)
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MISSES--
a) PRICE
The most obvious difference between Best Bagels and any bagel place in NYC is the price. Our two bagel sandwiches totalled almost 10 euro!!
This was almost as jaw dropping as the 11 euro boxes of Cap 'n' Crunch!
I will tell you that you can still find a plain bagel, toasted with butter in Brooklyn for ONE DOLLAR!
A more than decent everything bagel (topped with sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, toasted onion & kosher salt) with a very thick mortar of cream cheese will run you about THREE DOLLARS (2.15 EURO at time of this review).
They are not skimpy with the toppings here, so I understand the pricing--it's fair, just shocking considering this is the American equivalent of a daily baguette!
b) QUALITY
But back up--it's not about the toppings! Bagels are about the--well, the bagels! The New York recipe is malty, salty, dense, very chewy and with a shiny egg wash crust. This is very, very heavy bread--like maybe if you ate two whole baguette traditions yourself!
The Lyonnaise Best Bagel is just too fluffy and light. The crust is flaky when it should be a little waxy and hard to bite, and the size needs to be almost too big for you to put your mouth around. In fact, it should be sooo big that it has to be cut in half, and there has to be sooo much cream cheese that you almost need another bagel to eat that! And it should be sooo greasy that it leaks through the wax paper and aluminum foil that it's wrapped in and onto the takeout paper bag.
American excess!
Alas, for a truly authentic experience, take a plane.
For comme ci, comme ça ..well, we have Best Bagels..