Full review in the blog - a few highlight dishes below:
The Codfather: Sous-Vide Salt Cod was presented in a bed of Asian ingredients including a soy/mirin Reduction, lotus root baked in brown sugar, a crisp of Chinese Five-Spice, soy 'paper,' shredded aged tofu, and whole edamame, snap peas, cilantro, wasabi greens, scallions, and ginger. Another salad of sorts, but this time far more savory than sweet each bite was a different experience from the last and save for one particularly briny bite of the soy paper everything worked nicely together, the salt cod acting as an anchor to various tastes and textures.
Liver Let Die: How do you get chicken liver to be as smooth and creamy as foie gras? Apparently you take chicken liver, make it into a mousse, then freeze it and crush it. Take that composition, now room temperature, and place it next to a pair of purees - mustard and "chicken pot pie" then add in some buckwheat brioche, fermented garlic, plum and rhubarb cooked in Grenadine, julienned apples, and finally some chives and what do you get? A big, fussy, overly complicated plate of delicious...something that could certainly have been accomplished with far fewer steps but the kind of dish where the variety itself acted to make each bite as compelling as the last.
#ccc2012 Culinary Championship: At the midway point I'd see Chef Lepine's award winning dish, a superlative "surf and turf" consisting of a seared sea scallop juxtaposing a deep fried Chorizo meatball served over truffled pommes puree, and topped with bacon powder and bacon bits, fennel pollen and dehydrated fennel, plus lemon-thyme shallot sauce, lovage, and a compressed celery sheet. Complicated, but not simply for the sake of complication I particularly loved how the aromatic potatoes melded the sweetness of the scallop and the spice of the pork while the aromatics of the fennel and shallots hid in the background lingering on the finish.
Marrakesh Express: Probably my favorite course of the meal this presentation of sous vide leg of lamb in 'Moroccan spice sauce' along with goats cheese, chickpea croquettes, pistachio eggplant puree, green garlic foam, garlic confit, and pureed date was essentially a modernist take on the traditional tagine. At times sweet and at others spicy but at all times aromatic and texturally compelling I particularly loved the croquettes - crunchy bites of chickpeas with a nearly liquid center making the bites of lamb all the more flavorful when taken in succession.
The Boar Identity: Moving on to the first of two locally sourced wild-game courses, another outstanding presentation would arrive featuring wild boar belly from Mariposa Farms (a place we'd visit ~12 hours later,) alongside white bean and tomato cumin puree, pickled shallots and purple cabbage, caraway seed 'gel,' diced potatoes, jalapenos, tomatoes, cilantro, and a deep fried plantain. Complex and unexpected in many ways with the protein itself almost acting as savory seasoning to the fruits and vegetables on the plate I particularly enjoyed the interplay between the pickled components and the sweet plantain plus the aromatic puree - the cumin particularly rising to the palate and working particularly well with the smokiness of its wine pairing...
Parsnip Cake: Assuming nothing ordinary of the desserts I was surprised by the lack of clever title, but with a dense coffee cake made from mashed parsnips as its base this certainly was not a typical dessert. Semi-sweet but more so buttery and savory the cake was garnished with dehydrated parsnip chips and crumble parsnip cookie for texture plus brown butter powder, caramel, pineapples poached in vanilla, birch sugar ice cream, and finally the zest of Keffir lime to form an almost tropical flavor profile. Interesting and far more delicious than other vegetable cakes I've had at Schwa and Ko I particularly liked the ice cream here - a light mint that worked well with both the heft of the cake and particularly the lime.
The Verdict: Obviously a shock n' awe sort of restaurant, Atelier did an admirable job of offering both food and fun with a service staff that fit Chef Lepine's whimsical sense of humor to a t. Seemingly out of place in a Canadian landscape where molecular cuisine is not nearly as widely embraced as in the United States or Europe I think Atelier fills an important gap in the local food scene and while some dishes were seemingly complicated simply for the sake of being complicated most of them offered something delicious while all of them at least brought some interesting technique to the table. Certainly not the 'destination' restaurant that many of world's best 'mg' restaurants have become I particularly appreciated the half-pour wine pairings, an educational opportunity for someone with quite a low tolerance featuring some things I'd have never opted to try otherwise and I would definitely return if I should ever find myself back in Ottawa. read more