Here is what you get when you order a custom suit from Mr. Ned:…read more
Varham, son of the founder Ned, takes your measurements and quizzes you gently about what sort of suit you have in mind. They will make you any sort suit you want -- there isn't an enforced house style -- although Varham will steer you away from any utterly wrongheaded decisions. The measurements are applied to a pre-existing block pattern that best matches the cut you've specified. Second fitting is with just the basted body of the jacket to allow for significant alterations. Final fitting has the collar and sleeves already set, the trousers completed, with just the buttonholes and fine tweaking remaining. Total turnaround time is roughly 6-8 weeks; total cost using standard super 100/120 fabric is $850; functioning sleeve buttons and hand finishing along the lapel will run you $50 a piece.
This is not true custom/bespoke given that they are working off an existing pattern. That said, I have to imagine they're drawing from a great multitude of proprietary patterns in order to accommodate all the sizes and shapes coming through their door. Moreover, all work is done on the premises, and the owner takes the measurements personally and shepherds your suit through every stage of production. In my mind, that's about as close as you're going to get to custom at a price that's remotely affordable without a finance job.
Now am I happy with my first suit from Mr. Ned? Frankly, I am a tiny bit ambivalent. On the plus side: the trousers are fantastic and are perfect not just in fit but are of a piece with the ensemble. The back of the jacket and the sleeves exhibit terrific fit and drape. Finally, the lapel has a kind of graceful flow that says, "I am wearing a custom made garment!" to anyone sensitive to this strain of vanity.
My criticism involves a rather imperfect drape to the sides and a lack of polish in the details due to the garment being largely machine made (although all the critical components like the sleeves are set by hand). At my final fitting, Varham pointed out this was my first suit with them. Implicitly the second suit would be an improvement, at least in the fit department.
For most readers, $850 is a lot to spend on something that is only the first step towards a perfect fitting suit. For me, it's justifiable in that I wear suits for work constantly. I require a garment that is not only truly comfortable, but can withstand the wear and tear of NYC life; my suit is made from 14 oz Scabal Super 100 which is some pretty tough wool - it feels like a military uniform.
Is it worth it? Absolutely. I wear my Mr. Ned suit more than any other. I feel more confident, thinner, smarter, etc. It's hard to put a price on materialistically driven self-worth, right? More objectively, Mr. Ned is widely regarded as the best game in town for custom suits under a $1,000. He knows his craft, delivers the goods on time, and makes the garments in NYC. I can't think of anyone else that can even come close to offering that kind of value for money.
Cool Trivia: Mr. Ned is the preferred tailor of film director Wes Anderson and made all the suits for the Royal Tenembaums.