Key word: DRIED FISH. Don't like dried fish? How about LIVE CAUGHT FISH? Don't care for seafood or the sea? Well you, my friend, have taken the wrong turn from Funkytown and ended up in the wrong place, for Tai O is all about the water, seafood and tourism.
A 20-minute bus ride from Ngong Ping (Giant Buddha), or about an hour from the Tung Chung station, Tai O is historically a quaint fishing village right on the inlet, with people living along the water in dangerous-looking houses on decaying wood stilts. Now it seems a shell of what it used to be, with a lot of dilapidated houses and a population of older folk smacking their gums over fish rice gruel.
When I visited, it was low low tide...revealing tiny little crabs with big claws, scavenging a myriad of plastic bottles, a wayward Croc, orange peels, a chair, and whatever else people felt might benefit the ocean population. Fishing trawlers - resting on the sand due to the low tide - looked like they'd seen better days, just as the population of Tai O, who greeted our little tour boat with drunken catcalls from their seaside homes.
Oh, the tour boats.
For HK25 you can take a thirty-minute tour with Gilligan and the crew in a zippy speedboat built for about a dozen people through the houses on stilts and a few hundred feet from shore where you will see - if you're lucky - Hong Kong's rapidly declining white dolphin population, some of which also have a pinkish hue. On the day I visited, we were very lucky to see a school of them jumping all around our boat, with a few only 50 feet away. Well worth the money.
The rest of the island has as many temples as it has dried fish. For the seafaring folk are a highly religious lot, praying for protection on the seas and a good catch of fish they can dry later.. There are several larger temples, some of which have large whale bones, purported to be a good luck charm. Others are permanent little altars to the gods. A little different from the Buddhist temples you might find anywhere else.
The village is a good hour's walk from one end to the other, and offers many photo opps of the ocean and surrounding hills. But in 90-degree weather and 80% humidity, it's for those with a death wish. There are vendors selling hot weather snacks and beverages, but they are fewer and farther between when you get to either end of town. There are also few areas to rest, and most of the walk is exposed. Fortunately, bathroom facilities are new and fairly clean, so passing out in the bathrooms or taking a bath in the sink is possible.
When I visited - around 10am - the place was still manageable - we were probably the first group of visitors - but by noon, the place was mobbed with visitors from Hong Kong and other countries trying to get their fill of dried fish and shrimp paste.
As with any other tourist area, the place is most hopping on the weekends, with vendors and market stalls everywhere. But then again, if you're not into dried fish nor the tourist scene and just want to enjoy the polluted waters instead of the polluted streets of Hong Kong, Tai O would be a cool spot to visit any day of the week. read more