Some of my readers ask "why talk so much about yourself in your reviews?" to which I say "so what?"…read more a review is at best a photo from the mind of some unknown, likely flawed, or perhaps even in these days of AI not, human. Who's to say it's real or not? so instead of my usual iron-clad standard procedure of "cutting to the chase" or "getting down to the dozen" as sayings go, i'll just this once add some personal details, important as you'll see if you read that far. think of it as my way of assuring you MY reviews aren't from some artificial digital ersatz mentality. Nope, mine are from a decidedly flawed perhaps diseased but very human writer. pay attention, this is the good stuff! for dry, objective details skip the next paragraph.
First, i'm entranced by a boundary. peering out over the west side railing of the gg bridge I wonder "what in the world is really out there?" maybe that's why, among less flippant reasons, i'm not much afraid of what comes next when you run out of days. i figure beyond that final boundary lies the biggest surprise in all existence. second, i'm both averse and adverse to groups meaning i'm ill-suited to tour travel, but you can't get to certain destinations alone. antarctica is such a one. third, i inherited my dna from germans and norwegians, so i like ice, snow and wind-chill. finally and quite frankly, I firmly believe ufos hide out in oceans, probably near the poles: i wanta see one. So it is that I felt compelled to travel to "el fin del mundo". now you know enough about your reviewer to properly gauge the content of what follows:
I recently completed an antarctic "expedition" (carriers prefer this term to suggest high adventure rather than merely mundane luxury travel). if you plan such a trip, somewhere truly unusual, choose a high-end company like a&k, worthy of higher price. ships are small, fewer passengers. low-end tours on floating hotels only take you nearby, passengers can't disembark. Much of the trip, you sail on not-calm blue water; unless you're into self-abuse don't take an ice-breaker. the more recent the ship's vintage the more likely it will benefit from current technology that increases stability. my trip on a&k was excellent, aboard the good ship le lyrial: flagged by the french tour company Ponant, 500', 140 passengers, 139 crew.
to be sure this came at no bargain, in fact I paid a similar sum to buy a car for my daughter a month before. while this kind of travel was one i'll not soon repeat, a good many of my fellow groupers had been on A/K tours to exotic destinations and planned more. this trip met my expectations, but most places i might go next, i'll just go: rent car, buy roadmap, turn off the "never-lost" gps... and i'm good. judging from the fine and dandy folks i met aboard le lyrial, this mode of travel would seem unnecessarily frugal, crude, perhaps even gauche, but for sure lacking, and in fact does, a certain vital level of service and accoutrements necessary to the requirements of those seeking more informed and gracious style of travel. i made a few friends on the trip, like of mind and spirit... but few they were indeed.
luxury cruises will seem better or worse depending very much on the talents of the tour's crew and equipment. in this case the ship and its crew were supplied by Ponant, while the organizers of the activities were done by A&K. in many ways the quality of this AK experience was as much due to Ponant as it was to A&K. both groups were excellent in their service and worked together seamlessly. ponant provided for those "sailing" the ship, operating the machinery and all that. equally well done was the kitchen staff, always cooking up something fresh despite the fact that we were 3 weeks out. tasty, with a french touch here and there (bangers 'n mash for Brit breakfast), but while plentiful and ever available, I hate to report that the wines failed to match the menu. the excursions onto islands and mainland antarctica were lead by a/k experts, with a steady hand on the tiller of those terribly unstable zodiac rubber raftboats. plenty of gear was required to stay dry and warm enough, and when you were done frollicking on ice and snow hours of fun at the bar remained.
lots of dandy folks were along for the ride, mostly well-heeled types from coastal cities in the country they lived. most common topic initially was: "why are you doing this?" and most common reason given was holding up 7 fingers, meaning this was the seventh continent to visit, as part of a bucket list, a bit lame but ok. it came as no shock to me then, that when asked why i was aboard i got such uncomfortable stares. So I simply decided not to extend an invitation to join me on my veranda at night. For there, surely enough you'd often find me, clocking the dark depths, perusing boundaries, hoping to spot a ufo emerging from the frigid antarctic waters... as I firmly believe they do. Spend $35 grand filling your bucket... i'll do mine.
