My wife and I have just returned home from our second holiday at Villa Centopino - we had a…read morefortnight there both last year and this. What can I say? Overall it's probably the most relaxing, enjoyable and restful place I've ever been to on holiday.
The setting is stunning, surrounded as it is by breathtaking views of the Tuscan hills - all the more enjoyable for watching tremendous thunderstorms traversing the countryside on the other side of the valley from the comfort of Centopino's patio - while we didn't get a drop of rain. The villa is very comfortable with everything you'll need to make your stay as convenient and restful as possible - and you must experience at least one sunset from the hot-tub - it's beautiful. If you want to start the day with something to get the heart pumping, simply jump in the pool - you'll instantly know what I mean.
It has to be acknowledged that the villa is fairly remote and a car is probably a must. That said, for days when you really don't want to drive anywhere, there are some beautiful walks to be had from the villa - not least around the villa's own garden, olive grove and surrounding fields. When you fancy a drive then Volterra, Siena, San Gimignano, Florence, Pisa - the whole of Tuscany is within reach and even places like Montepulciano are do-able.
It used to be the case that if you wanted to eat out in the evening then you had to drive over to somewhere like Radicondoli (to La Pergola - superb) or elsewhere for dinner. Not any more. The newly opened Diavolo Rosso, run by Stefano and his charming wife, is fantastic. Their hospitality is exceeded only by the quality of the food - their peppered steak is mouthwateringly tender and full of flavour and their Cinta Senese is Tuscany on a plate. And it's literally 2 minutes from the villa down the road towards Castelnuovo. Stefano regularly has friends dropping in for dinner - get into a conversation with them over a glass or two of the local vino (and maybe, as we were lucky enough to, meet the guy who actually produces it), share their locally produced cheeses and meats, and the evening just evaporates in a way that typifies the appeal of Italian hospitality and 'la dolce vita' that keeps us going back time and again.
But the real jewel in the crown of Centopino is undoubtedly the owners, Gina and Franco. It's difficult to overstate the warmth of the welcome they give you. The fridge full of basics on arrival, the almost daily gifts of wine, eggs, cakes (baked by Gina - will you marry me?) etc. Nothing is too much trouble for them because, quite simply, they care passionately about where they live and they want to share everything about it with their guests. (And if, as we did this year, you have any little difficulties - in our case dental problems - they're a God-send with their local knowledge and contacts.)
I could go on - but you've probably got the gist by now.
Will we go back? Does il papa have a balcony?