Ok, here we go.
Five stars. An unexpected culinary…read moresanctuary in Buenos Aires.
I found myself there under rather extraordinary circumstances. My luggage had been lost in Panama. My connecting flight to Cordoba was derailed by an airport strike. There were angry passengers, demonstrations and a lot of uncertainty. Eventually the airline provided hotel accommodation and a meal voucher. That voucher led me to this restaurant and what an unexpected pleasure it turned out to be.
After a few hours of desperately needed sleep, I wandered downstairs hungry, exhausted and wearing the same clothes I'd been travelling in for far too long.
It was about two in the afternoon, that awkward stretch between traditional Argentinian meal times, and I essentially told the staff, "bring me whatever you've got" and good God, did they deliver. What followed was a beautifully orchestrated, multi-course dining experience.
There was salad, avocado toast, several other dishes and dessert. Five courses of culinary indulgence. Each arriving separately and with such attention to detail. The plating was artistic. Some might call it ostentatious, I call it craftsmanship. There's a difference between throwing food onto a plate and creating something visually appealing. That kind of presentation requires skill, creativity, pride and frankly, I'd like to see some of the critics do better.
The restaurant itself was contemporary, stylish, perhaps more reminiscent of an upscale lounge than a traditional dining room, but I loved it. Who decided that excellent food must be served in a room that looks like your grandmother's formal dining area?
The expansive glass frontage wrapped around the building, offering two dramatically different views. On one side, a charming, tidy, almost quaint neighbourhood scene. On the other, the walls separating the area from the port where uniformed, armed security personnel stood watch. The contrast was extraordinary. Inside, I was enjoying beautiful food in a sophisticated, comfortable setting. Outside, a visible reminder of the political tension I'd encountered only hours earlier. It was surreal, fascinating, and in its own peculiar way, rather beautiful. That restaurant became a little sanctuary in the middle of an otherwise spectacularly chaotic journey.
My one tiny complaint? The lemonade. Not because there was anything wrong with it, quite the contrary, it was absolutely lovely, served cold with ice, and my only disappointment was that there wasn't nearly enough of it. If the worst thing you can say about a restaurant is that you wanted more of something they served you, I think they're doing pretty damn well.
I also appreciated the leisurely progression of the meal. Rather than rushing everything onto the table at once, the staff allowed me to enjoy each course individually. It felt civilised, intentional and wonderfully indulgent. By the time I'd finished, I was thoroughly satisfied, pleasantly exhausted and ready to return to my hotel room for another glorious stretch of unconsciousness before resuming my endless journey to Cordoba.
I've since read some rather unflattering reviews of this establishment, particularly regarding its contemporary atmosphere and elaborate food presentation, but mine was divine. What could have been just another forgettable airline meal voucher became one of the loveliest memories of an otherwise disastrous travel day.
Five stars without hesitation, and to whoever was responsible for those gorgeous plates, please don't ever stop showing off.