Times are changing in Bright. A town best known by food fans for a few hits (la blance ice creamery, Simone's) and many more misses, evident in the frequently changing restaurant styles, formats and menus, now has a well-established modern indoor/outdoor brewery and this little beauty, 'Thirteen Steps.' Strolling curiously past one day, the owner stopped boy partner and myself with 'You have reached your destination'. Clearly conscious of the prestige of the clientele he has just stopped (flattery gets you along way with us) we paused and heard the story. With a fair pedigree behind them, owner and chef have moved from Melbournefor the good life and bought Thirteen Steps last May. They opened in November and one look at their adventurous menu had us sold.
Well expectations were high but I couldn't possibly even image the experience before us, easily best of the year and might even scrape into top 10 restaurant experiences EVER. The atmosphere, in a sexy cellar, down 13 steps (logically) has an intimacy you dream of. The food was exceptional. The pork shoulder/duck fat/thyme terrine smashed café vue for 6, the coconut duck curry laughed at Chin Chin and the pickled burger grinned menacingly at Huxtaburger. We were granted samples of wine before we chose our bottle (most between $30-$40, unheard of in Bright). Then the fun really started. Dimly lit lights gave way to romantic moments, neighbours chatted, the vinyl started spinning - French house don't mind it they do. 'Appropriate to dance?' I queried. Taking my cue from the hipsters sipping tequila next to us (are we in Berlin, perhaps Eastern Europe, La Esquina in NYC?) I bounced in my seat -having.a.ball.
Dessert - doughnuts with dripping chocolate sauce and crème brulee. Bravo - I throw my hands in the air (didn't but you get the picture). All this for under $150. We stumble up the stairs, spilling out into the street. There is no one in sight, no sounds, just a door in a wall, 13 steps down ,something special awaits. I imagine I'm giggling, secretly stealing away from a speakeasy in a land and time far far away, it's a discovery - I told you first.... read more