When it comes to coffee & cake shops, there are things that you can forgive and there are things that stick in your throat.
I can often, and easily, forgive expensive bakeries on the understanding that everything is homemade and fresh, and MY GOD are the cakes here homemade and fresh! Massive iced loaves of banana bread and chocolate marble cake line the tops of the counters, flanked by huge lemon drizzle cakes with zesty water icing dribbling down the sides. At the end of one counter sits 3 or 4 multi-layered cakes thick with butter icings, while beside the till is a tray packed with mouth-watering cupcakes and muffins. When you ask them for a slice of something, the staff have to heave these behemoths down from the display with both hands and use large industrial bread knives to cut them thickly. So big, in fact, are the slices offered to you that twice I ordered the iced banana bread and marble cake for my boyfriend and I, and twice they lay half eaten while we rubbed our poor tummys.
It's a glutton's idea of heaven and, although I can taste the diabetes just from recounting the details, you really feel like you're getting a lot of cake for your money. There's no space here for elegant portions or pretty piping - the Swallow Bakery is all about big, sweet and fresh from the oven.
There are, however, some things that can't be forgiven. Like watery, weak coffee with burnt soy milk, which did literally stick in my throat. The coffee really was terrible. This was such a sad discovery, as i'm not a coffee snob and can be just as happy with a boring filter coffee as with an artisan roast americano. Although I did return for more cake, I never returned for more coffee, and although this wasn't a deal breaker when ordering to take away, it would definitely put me off sitting in.
That is if I would ever be able to get seated anyway. Swallow seem to be doing so well for themselves that at lunchtime on a week day it was absolutely packed and just getting out after paying was a bit of an assault course.
If I ever find myself back in Cheltenham I'll definitely give Swallow's coffee another go, and in the meantime i'll just have to daydream about their cakes! read more