After a gradual decline starting in the 1970s and then accelerating through the 1980s, Streatham High Street was, in 2002, voted the "worst street in Britain". That unhappy honour, however, galvanised funding for regeneration and things are on the up.
Leading the revitalisation is The Manor Arms. Sitting just off the High Street, this deceptively large gastro-pub is dominated by an open kitchen; which is perfect for watching other peoples' food arrive at the pass, looking so good you want to revisit your own order.
This was my second visit: the first, a year or so ago, involved a truly historic starter of crab mayonnaise on toast - although it may have been called something more glamorous. So memorable was it, I don't recall the rest of the meal in any particular detail. The memory lingers as just a sensation of having eaten something quite perfect.
Sadly the crab wasn't on this time.
In any event, starters of monk cheeks served with bacon and mash were tasty. Mash as a starter was a little curious and the plate had the impression of being a main course zapped with a shrinking-ray rather than a genuine appetizer, but that is not really intended as a criticism. It was nice.
The waiter didn't know what monk cheeks were. A companion has said to him that she assumed it was monk fish -of course- but with the only real alternative being the cheeks of actual monks, he fled to take instructions. No harm done, he was new.
9oz Rib-eye steaks were the order of the day for the main course. One medium, one medium rare was the instruction, both nicely coloured on the outside but rare in the middle was how they arrived. No big deal. The pepper sauce was just slightly on the anaemic side, but again, not bad, not bad. A side order of chips - although it is a bit much to serve a main course with no cost-inclusive carbs - were pretty good too.
Prosecco must be cold and bubbly. Both these fundamentals were delivered.
I do take issue with the dessert though. A chocolate brownie with ice-cream is one thing; a chocolate brownie laced with almonds is quite another altogether. I have a feeling I fell for the same diabolical trick last time around, but the wretched crab on toast has superseded my recall. There was a feeling of déjà vu and of almond, stuck in my teeth.
The long and short of it is this: the Manor Arms is really rather nice. I do wonder though, how much of it is a psychological trick, the illusion of grandeur and foodie excellence projected onto an average tapestry, situated on the former worst high street in England for contrast.
However, trick or no trick, it has consistency, as demonstrated by my two visits a year apart. You should do and I'll probably go back. They are due to start a "crab shack" in the garden, with limited opening hours. A first for Streatham I would venture and hopefully a sign of the times. read more
