So how did we end up here? Well, it was that glass of local gal Kathleen Quealy's vibrant Rageous label wot did it - we ate at The Long Table the night before and couldn't resist trying the sangiovese, shiraz, pinot noir and merlot blend - a luscious affair that was one of the stand-outs on this thoughtful wine list. Actually, the food was pretty thoughtful here, too.
In the kitchen of this assured one-hat place, head chef Andrew Doughton serves arty creations and exciting flavour combinations. To start, an amuse bouche: tuna tartare on crispy pig's skin with a smooth layer of mirin adding a satisfying savoury dash of unami and holding everything together.
Ash-baked celeriac, cauliflower 'tofu', cedar, kale and nashi pear. An adventurous veggie starter - we liked that they tried to make this dish as exciting and multi-dimensional as possible, and while some elements really worked in isolation, the plate ended up being a bit of a miss-mash of flavours and, in particular, textures. From fibrous celeriac to the crunchy kale and a spin on tofu - the consistency of thick-set natural yoghurt. Not convinced, but that's certainly better then being presented with a boring, safe vegetarian starter.
Blue swimmer crab spring roll, fennel, sweet corn mayonnaise and chicken skins. Great - crunchy pastry, creamy crab filling, crisp chicken skins. A hit. Big fan of sweet corn mayo, too.
Grass-fed aged sirloin, shallots, king browns, radish pods and barbecue sauce. A joy to behold, perfectly cooked rare steak peppered with perfectly cooked vegetables and sitting in a thick, rich and unctuous sauce.
Otway pork belly and neck, black pudding, toffee apple and baby leeks. The holy trinity of pork belly - moist meat, gelatinous fat, teeth-sticking crackling. Hallelujah! Plus the added bonus of rich neck meat marbled with rich veins of fat and black pudding. Pig on a plate. Done.
Tarte au citron, salted oats and fennel pollen ice cream. One word. Deconstructed. And it worked without trying too hard or alluding us common folk who just love a good lemon tart. Great citrus flavour offset by the salty oats and smooth ice cream.
Handpicked berries, parsnip, hazlenut, basil blossoms and sorbet. Parsnip cream (wrapped in pretty much the same pastry as the crab starter) and tart berries with a punchy sorbet. Another beautiful dessert in which the savoury elements almost overtook the sweet - a great end to a meal without the sickening sugar rush.
This place runs like clockwork under the watchful eye of Samantha, and its welcoming spaces move from casual wine bar, to homely restaurant to smarter dining room with ease. Book a taxi and get stuck into that wine list. A truly memorable menu and gorgeous place to pass an evening.
The same couldn't really be said for lunch the following day, at the Red Hill Estate, but that's another story all together... Part 3 coming soon.
But first, when you are not eating and drinking, be sure to check out this gorgeous corner of Victoria - the coastline either side of Cape Schanck Lighthouse (one of the oldest active lighthouses in Australia) is stunning, as are the surf beaches, especially nearby Gunnamatta.
And if it is views you are after - drive up to Arthur's Seat before taking the winding road back down and stopping off at various lookouts along the way.
On a good day you can make out Melbourne's skyline looking very otherworldly and mystical as it looms up out of the water across the bay. read more
