It's hard to believe this is an actual military base, and the chance to have a look around is not to be sniffed at. Despite not being a US citizen it only took a brief inspection of my passport to wave my through the gates at Camp Mabry. Once inside, we failed to follow directions correctly and ended up driving along a single track road through empty parkland where some old vets had fired up their smoker for lunch. I smiled at them and they didn't shoot back. It's all rather relaxed and nobody seemed to mind.
The museum is only one part of the camp, whose main role is being the headquarters of the Army and Air arms of the Texas National Guard, itself part of the US Army. The Texas Navy is also represented by an honorary admiral working at the museum front desk. I'm guessing Camp Mabry functions as much as a retirement activity center as it does a home for National Guard pen pushers. Apart from the museum's exhibits, the camp doesn't seem like the home of US military might. The nuclear warheads, stealth fighters etc. must be hidden in another part of the state -- modern hardware is mostly absent, although they do at least have a lot of Humvees.
Half of the fun was talking to Allen, another of the retired veterans at the front desk, who amongst other things explained the layout of the museum and what to expect from the different permanent exhibits. The section on the "Lost Battalion" and the years they spent as prisoners of war during World War II in the Dutch East Indies is quite harrowing, and also significant in its collection of primary evidence from the time. I'd suggest getting that bit out of the way first.
There are three other large rooms of exhibits around a main hall filled with vehicles. There's a room on the 36th Infantry and their roles in World War II which is stuffed full of US and Axis arms and equipment including an MP-40 in front of an awkwardly enormous swastika. Particularly impressive is the giant silver punchbowl set that was cast, with permission and as a gift from liberated Europeans, from some liberated silver. As an exhibit, it is handy for the purposes of jollying yourself up a bit by thinking of VE-day partying.
Another room is about various 19th century Texan campaigns, with a real Bowie knife, model of the Alamo, confederate general pistols, and lots of old horse-tack and field equipment. There's a lot of things to see and it must all be worth a fortune. For a non-Texan non-American, it is also a little drawn out. Move quickly as there's a lot to see.
At the back there's a room about The War on Terror which was a bit too topical for me. I preferred my time outside in the Artillery Park: great rows of cheek-by-jowl tanks and artillery (and on the other side of the parade green, warplanes) which are sufficiently old and historical to avoid touching too many political nerves. read more