Hawk's Landing at Colonial Country Club is one of those places you either have access to or you…read morespend your life hearing about. Reservations are members only, so if you know someone, call in that favor. It's worth it, mostly.
The newly renovated dining room sets a high bar before the food even arrives. Warm, inviting, and well-appointed, it's the kind of space that makes you want to linger. We started with drinks at the bar before settling into a great booth near the kitchen, where you could watch the line in action. A small touch, but it adds to the evening.
The Poke Tower opened the meal on a high note and never really let go. Stacked generously with tuna, crab, and cucumber, served alongside fried wontons, it's an appetizer that comfortably holds its own across four people without anyone feeling shortchanged. Share it. Don't be a hero.
For entrees, our table covered serious ground - filet, filet with prawns, the PB&J, and scallops and every single one arrived cooked to perfection. This deserves a moment of appreciation, because cooking a true medium rare has apparently become a lost art. Too many kitchens give you a choice between raw and well-done with nothing in between. Hawk's Landing does not have this problem. The steaks came with beautifully seasoned mashed potatoes and asparagus, though the asparagus was aggressively over-salted on this particular evening, a minor stumble on an otherwise strong plate. The char on the steaks, however, was spot on.
Dessert brought a peanut butter creation that can only be described as a deconstructed Reese's cup for grown-ups, finished with a confetti of crushed nuts and popcorn where the sprinkles should be. Playful, clever, and very tasty.
The one soft spot in the evening was the service. For a week night with just two tables in the dining room, we found ourselves flagging down our server twice for drink refills and other needs. In a room that quiet, no guest should have to wave for attention.
Hawk's Landing has the food, the setting, and the pedigree to be one of the best dining experiences in Fort Worth. Tighten up the service and it's untouchable.
