The Sun Studio tour should be required for Memphis citizenship, right alongside the vehicle emission check. If you can stand in a room crammed with people from all over the world, many dragging jaws on the floor, and not be excited about your town, then you are hereby sentenced to remedial culture studies in a back room of the MLGW office on Summer. I try to get through Sun every couple of years, just sit in the back, watch the tourists fawn, and feel like an heir in some coolness conspiracy that more powerful and visible cities are still trying to manufacture.
Sun is so much more than Elvis's mic stand. There's something here for everyone. The blues and vernacular beginnings, the accidental discovery of guitar distortion, the racial door-crashing of Sam Phillips... there's enough fascinating history here to fuel discussion among academics, much less thrill fans of Johnny and Elvis. And it's not all old. This place still gets dusted off occasionally for established legends seeking an inspirational shot in the arm (Tom Petty), as well as promising up-and-comers (The Walkmen).
The tour itself is pretty short on frills, but it works, and I guess the wait lines don't allow them. The tour consists of only ~45 minutes in two rooms, and the physical facility provides limited impact. (I honestly would expect more memorabilia considering the pop culture importance and recent history of the place, but knowing Memphis's historical aversion to history, I shouldn't be surprised.) So the tour primarily relies on storytelling and setting. I've always had enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and fun leaders. Some of the best stories are not necessarily included in the tour, so stay within earshot of your leader and probe them with some questions of your own. Stories will come out, such as the legend of Bob Dylan walking unannounced into the recording room, kneeling to kiss the floor, and walking out without a word.
Sun Studio oozes grit, blue-collar resolve, Americana. You will find no party rooms for entourages. The legends who came through here were traveling light and still hungry when they moved on. With few exceptions, their legends ballooned much later. It's quintessential Memphis: taking the "mundane" for granted. It's like our own low-culture Sistine Chapel, except you get to take the art with you. Any music lover's trip to (much less residence in) Memphis that doesn't include Sun is incomplete. read more