The town of Moissac in SW France is not one of the prettiest, but it is the home to an architectural gem: The Abbey of Saint Peter (l'Abbatiale de Saint-Pierre).
There are two parts of the abbey which attract interest and even cause excitement: the tympanum, or archway around the main door; and the cloisters.
First, a general word about the abbey's history.
The building of an abbey was started in the 7th century. According to legend, it was the idea of Clovis, the Frankish king, but in fact, it was begun by Saint Didier, the Bishop of Cahors.
The Benedictine monks remained there for 1000 years, until in 1626 they were replaced by Augustinians, under such luminaries as Cardinal Mazarin.
However, monastic life ceased altogether in 1789, with the French Revolution.
In the middle of the 19th century, the building was under threat with the passing of the new railway line, but fortunately survived, though you will see (and hear!) that the trains run perilously close to the cloisters.
Today, the cloisters and tympanum are classed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.
The tympanum, above the southern door, represents perhaps the ultimate in Romanesque sculpture. It depicts, from around 1130AD, Chapter 4 of the Apocalypse, and shows Christ in majesty, surrounded by the writers of the gospels, and the Tetramorph. (Over the centuries, the image of the tetramorph became one of the most recurrent and majestic themes of Christian iconography. It shows the four beings surrounding the throne of God that St. John sees at the beginning of the Book of Revelation. The Church Fathers emphasized that this vision echoed that of Ezekiel in the Old Testament and transformed the four beings into the four winged animals that symbolize the four Evangelists: the lion for Mark, the bull for Luke, the man for Matthew, and the eagle for John).
Christ is accompanied by 24 Ancients, spread over three levels. These are the chosen ones, representing all of mankind. They sit on thrones like gods, and are crowned like kings. They hold musical instruments and golden goblets, representing the prayers of the saints.
On the pier (the upright between the doors) are three pairs of lions and lionesses, and to the sides are likenesses of Saint Paul and the prophet Jeremiah.
On the door jambs, we see Saint Peter and Isaiah, completing the symbolism of the twin entry to faith via the Old and New Testaments.
The side panels show, on the right, scenes from the nativity story; and on the left, condemnation of the sins of lust and greed.
On entering the cloister, you will immediately be struck by its beauty. But first and foremost, the cloister is remarkable for its age. It was created in 1100AD. No other cloister in the world, of this age, is as well preserved.
The second major point of interest are the 76 romanesque columns, representing about 50 scenes from the Bible and aspects of Church history. For here, appropriate for an age when most could not read, were told the Bible stories. Here were the pictures to accompany the stories.
Entrance to the cloisters costs 5EUR (adults) or 3,50EUR (children, handicapped). read more
