This former silver mining town in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, is a great place to hole up for a few days rest after climbing a 14er or two. It is small compared to many more touristy places nearby (Ouray, Telluride or Durango), and thus attracts fewer travelers. We were there to relax and explore the surrounding area, full of beautiful scenery and the remains of the silver rush that was active from 1880 through 1950. I love crawling through the many ghost towns at higher elevations that were once boomtowns full of fast money, fast guns, fast women and and even faster losses.
The main drag is only a few blocks long, but looks much as it did in its heyday. Saloons, restaurant, breweries and family owned stores make the economy limited in the off season when the ski resorts are closed, but pleasantly busy when snow is on the ground. We took a few nights at the Wyland Hotel on the east end of town. It has been well renovated since I last stayed there at the end of the last century, but it maintained it's western charm with the friendly owners who were only to happy to talk with the guests and turn out good breakfasts every morning. Comfortable room, hot water, strong view from our second floor window.
Our first day we stayed in town walking about to see what it had to offer. There were more than enough small cafes for enjoying a few meals, a couple of breweries for late afternoon refreshment, and some galleries and tourist shops to satisfy out desire for interesting remembrances. There was also a tiny train station for the Durango to Silverton Narrow Gage Railroad that ran daily over the San Juans to historic Durango. We passed on the trip, but enjoyed the train sitting there waiting for ticketed passengers to get onboard. Just felt a bit too hokey, although I had no doubt the view was spectacular.
Our second day we drove out of town on the Million Dollar Highway. Great scenery along the way. Next we headed up Route 2 to the southeast of town and spent time in Animas Forks, a fairly large ghost town with plenty of old mining equipment and a large wooden tressel standing 30 feet above the ground. It reminded me of an old western movie set, now abandoned, but once alive with the dreams of people hoping to get rich, or at least make a living providing service to the miners. There were traces of silver and copper in the slag; the final remains of unrealized hopes and intentions.
When the sky darkened and threatened storm, we slowly headed back to Silverton and ended up at Avalanche Brewing Company for growlers and pizza. The beer was very good, although the altitude took something out of the pizza. Finished off both back in our room.
Next morning we checked out and began the drive back to Denver where we wanted a couple of nights to visit with friends in LoDo. read more