Yes... there are tourist traps on this ring drive. Yes... tourism is their main source of income. However, I think they do it well and quite frankly, if you are driving on your own, there are plenty of tourist traps you can cut out and plenty of places of the beaten path that you can stop at. In my experience, people like to complain about how touristy things are, but don't bother to wander off the path.
If you take a coach tour, unfortunately there is not much option to divert from the main road as many of the roads aren't made for coaches. I take university students on our own, home-grown tour of the Ring of Kerry. So we do stop where the other tours stop, however, I have to say, I've never had a student come back from the trip and say bad things about the Ring of Kerry. It is stunning! I've seen it in rain, fog, overcast days, busy, deserted, and most recently (in February of all months) in beautiful sun and warm temperatures... no matter what the weather, there are a lot of amazing views. And if you are a fan of challenging, long drives where it is just you and the road... this is a good one.
Since weather is hit and miss any time of year, if you are going to drive and don't want to get caught in the large tour groups going round, you should go in transition months... October is still a little on the busy side, but February is really nice because it is the last month of off peak before tourism picks up again. We just did a tour and not only did we get the ring to ourselves, but the weather was the best I've ever experienced (the two other tours I did were September and October). If the weather is not particularly good... there are some stops and views that won't be nearly as nice, but at least there is an entire peninsula of things to see and so it won't be an entirely lost cause. In fact, if it is raining, Torc Waterfall will be really impressive!
My favourite stop is the Madonna Statue in Coomakista Pass. The view from there (on a clear day) is absolutely stunning. Don't let the touristy stuff stop you from doing this ring. It is fabulous and even though I've done it three times on a coach, I'd love to drive it myself and get to the spots that the coach can't get to. read more