It's perhaps not surprising to find the world's largest Hindu temple (Mandir) outside India in…read moreLondon, given the historic links of trade and Empire between India and the UK. What is more of a shock, however, is that it is in Neasden, in a rather dreary setting of suburbs and light industry, defined in most people's minds by the North London Circular Road.
But this did not faze the temple's founders, who come from the Swaminarayan branch of Hinduism. In India, it is common for temples to be located in all sorts of places, and particularly in the community which they serve - in this case, the Indian community of North West London.
So, in 1989 they began the task of building the huge shrine and complex on what had been derelict land. 5,000 tonnes of pure white Bulgarian limestone and Italian marble were sent to India to be carved, and sent back to the UK for assembly into the temple itself.
The main temple is essentially a large, domed hall at the top of the grand external staircase, all of which - interior and exterior - is adorned with mind-bogglingly intricate carvings, some abstract, some naturalistic, and others depicting various deities. Inside, the main hall opens into a series of small screened chambers, in which are located the Murtis - the marble images which Hindus hold to be infused with the divine presence of God, in various different incarnations. These are elaborately decorated and clothed, and can only be seen at various times of the day: at others, the Murtis are behind closed doors, for ritual purposes, such as food offering, or simply to be left in peace.
This main part of the complex is astonishing, and is regarded by many as a wonder of modern Britain. It's certainly an incredible addition to the UK's stock of religious and architectural monuments. Whatever your faith (or none), it's bound to leave an impression.
Downstairs is an exhibition (entrance: £2) explaining the background to Hinduism and Indian culture, including its many achievements in areas such as language, mathematics, geometry, surgery, astronomy and philosophy. It's very educational and well worthwhile to put the whole experience into context, although there is a slightly aggrandizing tone to some of the explanations. The exhibition then goes on to explain the origins and beliefs of the Swaminarayan branch of Hinduism, and the role it plays in modern society.
Alongside, a Cultural Complex has been built, which includes prayer halls, wedding halls, a shop, cloakrooms, offices and the main entrance. This contains amazingly carved wooden decoration, which can be seen in the canopy above the entrance, but is repeated on a grand scale inside. The temple is surrounded on one side by small but intricate and beautiful gardens. Across the road is a car-park, left-luggage facility (for bags and cameras) and a small Shayona cafe serving vegetarian Indian food.
The temple goes out of its way to be open to all, and the staff are very welcoming and helpful. On my visit, the halls in the cultural centre were crowded with school parties, receiving lessons on Hindu religion and culture.
As you might expect, there are some rules you asked to follow, detailed on the website: essentially, you are expected to dress decently, cameras and mobile phones cannot be used inside the complex, nor bags taken in (there's a small area set aside for taking photographs of the exterior). After passing through security and a metal detector (a sad indictment of our times) you must take your shoes off - there are storage shelves for this, as well as coat racks.
The temple is a ten minute walk from Stonebridge Park or Neasden stations, and is clearly signposted from the North Circular road. Entrance is free, but there are donation boxes at various points if you wish to contribute to its upkeep.
