The takeaway: Beautiful, tall Adonises, catering to your every whim. A silky smooth oil provided for lubrication and generous pours of wines that quickly induce a drunken stupor. Is it a scene out of Plato's Symposium, or something closer to home? On Level 2 of the Strand Arcade, you'll find the lines between the two realities blur (and pay a pretty penny for the pleasure).
The setup: Getting to Pendolino is a bit annoying. You have to take an elevator from the dinosaur era (how cool would it be if dinosaurs actually took elevators??), which definitely triggers a bit of claustrophobia. Restrooms are on Level 3, requiring diners not only to exit the restaurant but also to take those same dinosaur-era elevators up and down.
The gustatory experience: The food is pretty great. I dare anyone to find a restaurant in Sydney that takes its olive oil more seriously than Pendolino. A meal kicks off with a splendid (and complimentary) bread basket, with 3 types of fresh breads, including walnut, sage & garlic, and focaccia. Think of them as carbolicious vehicles to dip in the 3 varieties of olive oil placed on each table -- plain, lemon and orange. Mix and match! Have a dipping party. I won't tell.
On the menu you'll find a range of classic Italian fare, from housemade pastas (which, if you walk around on Level 3, you might see staff making by hand) to desserts like gelato. Everything I (and my 6 colleagues) ordered was generally well executed and tasty. For an entree, I had the ravioli with spinach, parmigiano reggiano, gruyere and buffalo mozzarella ($27.90 for entree; a main portion is available for more $). The dish came with 4 housemade ravioli and was gently finished in a thin sauce of burnt butter and fried sage leaves. Perfectly cooked, and not a salt bomb. I thought the ravioli could have used a bit more filling for the skin size, but that's nitpicking. My main, roasted blue eye trevalla with tomato-braised fennel and onion, radicchio, kipfler potatoes, fennel and citrus dust ($42.90) was a knockout. The tomato braise was flavorful, sweet and tangy, a perfect complement to the white fish. Most interesting was a black squid ink cracker that topped the fish, offering crunchy texture and a sweet element. Sides of green beans ($12.75), also in a tomato braise that tasted like minestrone, and the rocket and parmesan salad ($12.75), were fine but unexceptional. For dessert I had the nougat, honey and almond milk semifreddo ($17.90), which was presented as an almond-crusted cone of semifreddo with a few candied almonds mixed in the semifreddo and served with a vanilla creme anglaise. You could taste the distinct elements of nougat and honey at the bottom of the cone, which paired well with the almond flavor. Very good.
The hospitality: Service was very attentive, though forgetful at times. We asked for refills of the bread basket -- twice -- but no refills ever came. We also asked for coffee and desserts to be served together -- we were in a bit of a rush -- but the restaurant failed to do this too. Note that it is very, very dark in the restaurant, but they do provide mushroom-shaped lamps at each table, which helps. Darkness is a good mood-setter for a romantic date (but watch out for the close proximity of nearby tables), but a bit ill-suited if you plan to transact any business over lunch. read more