My self-important 8,000th Yelp review calls for a historic place that makes the Pastel de Belém, a…read morepastry tart so popular they sell upwards of 50,000 of them daily from this one bakery cafe. I had been here about fifteen years ago on a solo trip when I waited in an endless queue for a takeout order. That same line still existed a couple of weeks ago when Jamie W and I visited on my return to Lisbon.
This time, we decided to try the dine-in option which I wasn't even aware of until I saw a YouTube video from a travel vlogger who recommended it. Sure enough, the line was a lot shorter and moved quite a bit faster. It turned out they serve up to 400 people in an expansive dining room. The menu goes beyond the pastels and offers croquettes, salt cod fritters, various sandwiches, and other pastries.
Of course we ordered the 1,6€ Pasteis de Belem. Four of them (Photo 6). Based on a secret recipe dating back to 1837, they compare favorably to the multitude of competitors, even Manteigaria, whose shops appear almost everywhere in Lisbon. The custard filling is creamy but not excessive and it's not overly sweetened. The standout is the thick and flaky crust, tender with a touch of salt.
The 2€ Iced Coffees with Milk was a nice complement. Since we didn't have time to get lunch while sauntering through Belem, we decided to take advantage of their cafe menu and each ordered the 3,9€ Tuna and Mayo with Boiled Egg and Lettuce on Mixed Wheat Toast (Photo 9). I know it sounds simple, but it satisfied much like the kombini sandos in Tokyo. Totally worthy of my 8,000 milestone.
FOOD - 5 stars...the pastels are still the bomb 189 years later...the sandwich worked, too
AMBIANCE - 5 stars...surprisingly spacious...you can also see the production process through large show windows on the way to the dining room
SERVICE - 5 stars...a cordial and attentive server who had to juggle a lot of tables
TOTAL - 5 stars...definitely a must-stop next to the equally essential Jeronimos Monastery
RELATED - Exploring Lisbon? Here's a collection of places I've visited and reviewed: https://yelp.to/36G55Oqisd