Vitabergsparken. Also known as Vita Bergen, Vitan - and the best park in Stockholm…read more
That's my humble opinion, and I've been to quite a few! Yes, Hagaparken is fantastic and massive, and definitely takes second place. But there's something so personal, so special, about Vita Bergen. While Hagaparken feels modern, there's something classic and romantic about Vitabergsparken. Perhaps it's the name, White Mountains. Perhaps it's the decadent and impressive Sofia Church, more than 100 years old, which towers upon the hill.
Perhaps it's the history - this part of Södermalm has had its name since the early 1800s. It was once one of the poorest parts of Stockholm, and Swedish playwright August Strindberg featured the area in his novel The Red Room. Today it's one of the most hip and vibrant parts of the island, located right by Nytorget, aka the cafe and cultural centrum of Stockholm's artsy elite.
The park is massive, and has an outdoor amphitheatre, a gazebo, a playground, and plenty of trees and alcoves with BBQ grills and picnic tables. There are always friends and couples and families relaxing here, and the park echoes with laughter - but there's always room to put down a blanket and have your own little square of peace and quiet.
But it also has its modern and even futuristic aspects. Here's a little trivia: Deep in the mountains, the Pionen center is nestled. Pionen used to be a civil defence center and Cold War bunker, but in 2008 it was converted into a data center. I haven't been in there, and I'm not sure you can get in at all if you don't work there, but there are some pretty awesome pictures online - it's a deep-space modern data center featuring fountains, a fish tank, greenhouses, and more, below 30 metres of granite.
Anyway, let's go back above ground. Vitaberg is my go-to spot for picnics, fika, playing games like Swedish 'kubb', and also big events like birthday celebrations and of course Midsummer. The park is also famous for its amphitheatre which is used frequently for the Summer Theatre series, with plays, ballet, and poetry onstage multiple nights a week.
It's green, lush, clean, and quiet. The winding, meandering paths zigzag across the hill, and it's easy to take the path less travelled here. It's easy to get lost, but it's easy to get found. A dozen hidden staircases take you down from the hills onto the street, and quaint red-painted cottages dot the edges. It's a perfect place for sunrise, and unbeatable for sunsets.
It's no wonder that Vitaberg has been featured in multiple modern Swedish pop songs.
There's a popular song by Rebecca & Fiona called 'The Bells of Vitaberg':
"When the bells of Vitaberg ring, you know that the night is ours. Time is running when Vitaberg's bells ring; you know the night is ours, and my heart is pounding."
