Lime's a big deal for Coffs Harbour. It rides in on a wave of contemporary Mexican-Australian cuisine that's been recently championed by everyone from Masterchef runner-uppers to Sydney pub scene oligarchs. The wave's getting a bit low at this stage, and it can be hard to forgive Lime for propelling us on with only a diminishing whitewash.
The execution's fine and there are good reasons this is a popular genre. I have concerns when the best dish is clearly the simplest: the grilled corn was beautiful, treated sparely and served with a corner of citrus. The tacos and tostadas, brought out immediately upon ordering and - as is the fashion - in tiny tapas sized portions, varied. Too-big slabs of ocean trout were overcooked, while the pulled pork and the ceviche hit the right notes. The restaurant's best idea - gorgeous plantain strips deep-fried into something way more interesting than a bowl of CCs - come paired with salsas, though I wouldn't recommend the chorizo and bean one. Soaking in its own pork fat, the "salsa" is intensely rich, already too-salty and bizarrely served with a sprinkling of... fetta cheese.
The good ideas also feel less exciting when the restaurant as a whole presents an unapettizing context. Though the jetty strip itself is a limited canvas to work with, the seating is undeniably claustrophobic. Our tables were overcrowded quickly, not helped by a massive jug of crappy white sangria, which wouldn't have stuck around so long if didn't taste like watery berry cordial. Worst of all was the dour hostess, failing to manage our orders or answer our questions usefully, instead perching in the doorway with a look of menacing depression that made us second-guess our idea for another round of orders. We did end up downsizing to one serve of churros, which is good because they were yum.
I'll paddle back out and ride this wave again, to be sure. But considering how great the region's produce is, and how simple the best Mexican food tends to be, it's far more likely to be in my own kitchen than in the company of a Coffs Harbour food industry that has a lot of catching up to do. read more