I've read about and admired the artwork of the Book of Kells since I was small, so to be able to…read moresee a small scrap of the real thing was exciting...but. The museum was small and crowded, and navigating from exhibit to exhibit was confusing -- I was attempting to listen to the audio guide, and kept ending up pausing to search around for the correct exhibit. (Maybe put arrows on the floor to guide visitors?) The enlarged illuminations, with discussions of all the symbolism, were likely the best part, as I learned a lot about the Book... but I'd almost prefer to buy a book *about* the Book of Kells, with high-quality close-up photographs. I'd be able to see more detail, suffer less crowding and frustration with the navigation, and sit down occasionally and use the restroom when needed. (There is nowhere to sit and rest, and no restrooms in the building.) So! If you love history, come see the single illuminated page on display (if you're patient enough to wait for a chance to get close enough), learn a bit about the creation and the history of the Book, then move upstairs to marvel at the Long Library, with its beautiful arched ceiling and weight of history.
In the Long Library, there is ongoing work to restore and catalog the thousands of historical works on the shelves -- plus the shelves themselves. It's a glorious space, with a few benches where one can sit and admire without getting dizzy. The Harp of Brian Boru (the actual harp that is the symbol of Ireland, centuries old) is on display here, and was a real wonder: warm dark wood with delicate carving, worn through years of use, and inlaid gemstones (some missing).
The final part of the tour is in a different building, where many of the most famous works from the Long Library are featured in a really creative interactive exhibit: images of busts of the authors talk to you, and to each other. There are representations of the digital archives as well, allowing you to appreciate how many important works are stored in the Long Library, and what a Herculean task is underway in restoring and cataloging them all.
The exit is through the gift shop, which had a diverse and high-quality collection of souvenirs of the college and the museums (not just cheap tchotchkes and tshirts).