Alain Ducasse, now 69, was only thirty-three years old when Le Louis XV became the first Hotel…read morerestaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars, and since that time the Chef and this room just off the entry of l'Hôtel de Paris has been synonymous with luxury.
Currently toqued by Emmanuel Pilon, a native of Lyon who has been with Ducasse since 2009 and leading Le Louis XV since 2022, food takes on the Mediterranean with an embrace of seasonality while service led by Claire Sonnet is faultless whether one is wearing Richard Mille and Dior or blue haired in military boots.
Booked for dinner as opposed to lunch, similar Tasting Menus and a la carte options save for the discounted daytime offering, "Agape" features five proper courses plus Cheese, Amuses and Mignardises for €420 while "Jardin" caters to Vegetarians for €290.
A mix of Ducasse classics and Pilon's creativity, Sancerre proving well-suited to seasonal Citrus, razor-thin Crackers begin the evening followed by five nibbles from which a shimmering Sardine Tartlette and fried Beets with Octopus were highlights.
A well-paced meal in such a grand room, with no detail overlooked, Bread and good Butter is plentiful whether one prefers Baguette, Sourdough or Fougasse in two flavors prior to an Amuse of honeyed Oysters or sweet raw Shrimp beneath grilled Kiwi foam.
Fully committed to the Riviera's unique terroir, charred Mullet with Lime, Lemon and Hazelnuts in a velvety Potage the first proper plate, Pilon's signature "Artichoke, Sea Anemone, Caviar" earns its accolades by way of sharply contrasting textures including a core of creamy Burrata.
Leaning into early Spring next with White Asparagus and line-caught John Dory beneath a blanket of white, its subtle flavors setting up nicely for lightly cooked Lamb in its own Jus with natural salinity added by Samphire and Offal Ravioli spooned on later as an added surprise.
Turning things over from here to Pastry Chef Sandro Micheli, bracing Sorbet followed by a plated Cheese Course with Quince and Salad, Bread Ice Cream soon gives way to a choice of Desserts including Ducasse's famous Baba or Rhubarb Soufflé infused with Sauternes and modernity.
Not done yet, a Coffee and Tea trolley following Pandoro sliced tableside, seasonal Citrus again finds itself featured first in four different Jellies and then at the center of handmade Chocolates before guests are presented with a complimentary loaf of Pandoro and menu to take home.
