I spent a summer in the New Mexico high country years ago, and while I did my fair share of hiking…read morethat summer, I never took on Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico at just over 13,100 feet. I always figured I'd return to the area at some point, and maybe do the hike. Well, "some point" finally arrived, and I decided that I was going to make a serious effort at hiking this rather daunting-looking rocky, steep mountain. I gave myself permission to fail - while over the years I've probably spent far more time at altitude than 99.9% of South Floridians, the fact remains that I have spent most of my life at oxygen-rich sea level. I didn't practice for this. My existing fitness would either allow me to make it, or fail me.
There are two main ways to get up the mountain, a longer, less steep 8 mile trail, and a shorter but steeper trail at just over 4 miles, known as the Williams Lake trail. I chose Williams Lake. The trailhead starts near the famous Bavarian restaurant within the Taos ski area. You basically take the road to the ski area, drive past it and find a dirt road. 2 miles up this dirt road and you'll find the trailhead parking lot. You can't miss it.
I started my hike around 7:45AM. It is highly recommended to start early, as the weather above tree line is unpredictable and can change on a dime. You do NOT want to be stuck up there as an afternoon thunderstorm builds up in a matter of minutes. It is an exposed high alpine summit, subject to all the same potential extreme weather conditions of most high exposed summits.
To me this hike can be broken down into 3 sections: 1) base at the Bavarian restaurant through the woods up to Williams Lake, about 2 miles, 2) Williams Lake up through ever sparser trees to tree line, about three-quarters of a mile, and 3) tree line to summit, traversing several rocky scree/talus slopes on the way, about a mile and a half.
The first section up to Williams Lake is a nice hike in itself, and a popular day hike for families. It is a steady climb and not easy, and will be a challenge to inexperienced hikers, but most should be able to make it if they persevere. The payoff is a pretty high alpine lake situated in a picturesque bowl at about 11,000 feet with higher peaks on all sides.
From there, part 2 gets you through sparse trees up to tree line. While not much more difficult than the first part, it was here when it became pretty apparent that every step was taking me to less oxygen. I was still strong at this point, but when you emerge in the meadows above tree line, you can see the peak and it looks way up there. In practical terms, from here you still have to climb a little higher than the Empire State Building, over the course of a mile and a half. At altitude.
Above tree line. This is where it gets steeper, and rockier, as you traverse some loose talus slopes. It starts out fairly mild but ramps up fast. At this point, every step was difficult....I felt like Frodo taking the Ring to Mount Doom. It would have been very easy to quit. Some people did. It can be done though. One step at a time, keep drinking your water and you'll eventually make it. Keep an eye out for some fat marmots and bighorn sheep! Eventually you come to a staggeringly high saddle/ridgeline. From here, make a right and continue up the steep rocky slope....the payoff is only a few minutes away. Such amazing views, Wheeler Peak feels like the top of the world. What a feeling, to have walked and earned this view on the strength of your two legs.
Now, after the adrenaline rush of reaching the summit, you have to descend. Pay attention. Cardio isn't a problem going down, but everything else is. Thighs burn like crazy. Lots of loose rock to slip on and hurt yourself.
This was the most stunning hike I've ever done. If you think you can deal with a tough high altitude hike, I highly recommend it.
