Caffe' Vini Emilio Ranzini is the kind of place that hasn't changed in decades, and long may it…read morestay that way. Tucked near Giardino Bottero and Piazza San Giovanni, this tiny, no-frills "piola"[1] is popular among locals and tourists alike. And for good reason.
The space is small: a handful of tables inside, a few more in a little courtyard out back. No table service: you order at the bar, grab your wine, and they'll bring the food over when it's ready. No fuss, no ceremony. If you need a table, just ask; if the place is full, you wait. Be ready to share a table with strangers[2]. No reservations accepted.
The wine is cheap and comes in civilized formats: by the glass, or by the quarter, half, or full liter of vino sfuso. The small bites run €2-3 each and are exactly what you want with a glass of wine: simple, honest, and satisfying. The anchovy tartine are the house classic and fully deserve their reputation. Try the spinach friciulin (a fried dough with spinach and cheese that's quietly excellent) and the meatballs are genuinely tasty. Just like the tomini cheeses with green or red sauce.
A few things to know before you go: the bathroom is "alla turca"[3], and they don't serve Spritz. If that's a dealbreaker, this is probably not your spot. If you're ok with it, welcome to old Turin.
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[1] From https://www.reteitalianaculturapopolare.org/archivio-partecipato/item/3426-la-piola.html: In the Piedmont region of Italy, a piola (or piòla) is a traditional, rustic, and popular tavern or wine bar. These establishments serve local wines alongside simple, traditional, and affordable food, acting as important social gathering places for the local community.
[2] Who will soon become new friends.
[3] That's how we call squat toilets in Italy.
