An artist friend of mine returned from a summer fellowship in Venice and proclaimed the art at the 2017 Biennale "not very good". I went anyhow.
The Biennale is, these days, an annual event, which alternates between art and architecture. It runs for about 9 months out of the year, and just finished it's 57th year. In 2017, art was featured; a whole lot of art. This event is also known informally as the "Olympics of the contemporary art world".
If I told you that the Biennale was possibly my favorite Venice experience and then told you that I agree with my artist friend, it would sound contradictory but the truth is just that. This experience is so much more than just the art on the walls that reducing it to that alone seems to be missing the point. Certainly, there was much art that I enjoyed but at least an equal amount that left me baffled. But again, beside the point.
The Biennale features artists from upwards of 90 countries. It takes place primarily in two locations (Giardini and Arsenale) with a ton of additional artists participating in locations beyond those venues. The art not in Giardini or Arsenale is free to view; viewing the bulk of the art in the other two locations runs 25euro and I consider that an excellent value.
It's not a joke to say that there's more art here than one can consume in a single day. When you purchase your ticket (on-site) it's divided into 2 parts. This allows you to visit Giardini and Arsenal on separate days perhaps even non-consecutive. I'd personally recommend at least a 1 day break between the two, longer if you have the time.
My Venice host, when told I was going to the Biennale, advised I go first to the Arsenale site as he thought it was the more beautiful of the two. Knowing more about myself I went to Giardini first, which is in a park setting. It's beautiful and, because you go in and out of many buildings, it feels like your day is spent viewing art in a park which for me was just nirvana.
Because I made the mistake of visiting the Biennale on my last full day in Venice I wasn't able to wait until another day to visit the Arsenale site. Still not through at Giardini (after many, many hours) I walked over to Arsenale to use the other half of my ticket. There's an equal amount of art there and the brief time I had to view it was woefully inadequate; I didn't get through even a fraction of it.
The Venice Biennale, during an art year, is truly one of those activities for which I would consider a return trip to Venice. I thoroughly enjoy looking at contemporary art and doing so in a beautiful setting on a gorgeous day with other like-minded people was a day of bliss.
It might not be everyone's idea of a fun time but for those with differing passions, there's always St Mark's Square. read more