Welcome to this modern restaurant gussied up in an old building. Fancy wallpaper mimics aged…read moreplaster. There are lot's of windows which give this place a perennial sense of good cheer.
Downstairs, you will find a pocket sized dining room overlooking diners outside at several additional tables in the shadow of the Cathedral.
The second floor is accessible only by a ship's ladder and is compact without feeling cramped or crowded. (Think Chez L'Ami Jean in Paris and Cha Ca in Hanoi for that claustrophobic dining experience. Those are places where you all have to lift a fork and then chew in unison otherwise it won't work.)
The Staff: Parlez only 5 words in French, even butchered French, and they will glow and shine with pride that you tried. Yes, both waitresses are harried going up and down those steep stairs all night like mad hamsters, but sit back and sip your Vin du pays (tonight, Merlot) and let the time tick.
Wine and Aperitifs: There is ubiquitous selection of Kir this and that. A Cider or too (we're in apple country), and a tight wine list. In the USA "house wine" comes in a waxed box with someone's missing Step-dad pictured on the side. It usually has a shelf life equal to Uranium. In France the house wine is often the chef's favorite and an excellent choice. The French, bless them, do not abide poor wine. Here, the Merlot was as soft and dry as a toweled off baby after a tour in the tub. It was fit for Royalty, a royal wine snob, or anyone who simply likes things simple and good.
The Vibe: Who goes there? Tourists who were underwhelmed with Le Pommier and thought they could do better. And we all did that here. So can you.
The Food: There are Prix Fixe choices. All are beyond very reasonable and all different. Then there is a 4th menu offering you a choice of anything from the previous three menus in case you can't decide and finally there is an ala carte option. The Prix Fixe alternatives make the most sense and are the best value, so don't be that person. In the USA often the Blue Plate Special is usually a walk-in clean out. This is fairly priced fare in a country that isn't bashful about overcharging for chow.
The Camembert Tart with Roasted Apples set on Puff Pastry positively oozed gooey cheese, melting like a suitor's heart. It was sweet, tart, and salty which are all fine attributes in a tarte, a tart and a significant other.
It is accompanied by a perky simple fresh garden salad splashed with a light Vinaigrette.
The Pork Pate masqueraded as Pate, but take off it's mask and you will find a wonderful Head Cheese. It had all the requisite piggy parts in gelatin. Blue Collar Pate it was and perfect for me. The pig doesn't grow it or own it that I won't eat it and like it. The key is to get the pig to stop wiggling while the chef helps himself to things the pig didn't want any more. Good for me.
Then came the Skate Wing (how often do you see those?) My Wing was buried in butter and garlic and served with Sweet Potatoes piped into swirls, a pile-o-baby Vegetables all cooked al dente crisp along with a Spinach Timbale. Beautiful as a fashion show with each taste treat struttin' their stuff on the plate.
The Chicken Fricasse with Frites, Baby Artichokes elevated Chicken to regal status. Braised in white wine it was stellar from it's thighs to yours.
And in summation, there was a Apple Tarte with delicious house made Vanilla Ice Cream. (Good Vanilla Ice Cream is evidence that there is God. This Ice Cream made me a believer.) Both Ben and Jerry would commit crimes against nature in public to learn how to make this.
The fresh Apples were cooked off until they were soft and then neatly arranged on a Puff Pastry tray that crisp and buttery.
My evening began and ended with a tarte, so to speak, but I was happy to do my part. I ate it all and asked the four people at the next table if they were going to eat everything they ordered.