We came here for the tripas and were not disappointed. Bodegas Ricla is a tiny, old-school bodega…read morejust off Plaza Mayor: green shelves crammed with bottles and photos, chalkboards listing a few raciones and wines, brass taps, and a bartender who runs the room with brisk, friendly efficiency. The callos a la madrileña (aka tripas) was exactly what I was hoping for - tender honeycomb tripe in a paprika-rich, brick-red sauce with chunks of morcilla and chorizo you sop up with crusty bread. The tortilla came out thick and custardy in the middle, all potatoes and eggs, the classic bar version you want with a short pour of vermut, which we also ordered and drank with gusto. Nothing fancy, nothing overthought, just simple, beautiful Spanish bar food done right, in a place that's been making locals happy for generations. Cash only, so make sure you hit the ATM first.