This little gem is tucked away like it's hiding from the tourist mobs, which is perfect, because that means mostly locals and way less selfie sticks. I stumbled in because they stay open later than the other spots, and I was glad I did. Warning: the portions are in family style, I even expected them to ask me to set an extra chair at the table. Those mussels? Took me a while to finish, but absolutely worth every bite. And if you're feeling brave, try the traditional Apulian dish "Orecchiette Con Cime Di Rapa" , also in "call your cousins, this is huge" size. read more