***REVIEW FOR SWIMMING POOL***
It's August. And even though the days are still long and hotter than ever, there's a feeling of time catapulting towards the end of the season just as sure as a dried leaf falls towards the ground. This inevitability puts a nostalgic and romantic sepia filter over everything...the perfect conditions under which to visit this park and pool.
Any outsider to the Washington Heights area will notice a general feeling of quiet and safety that might not always have graced the streets. The only neighborhood-specific novelties a visitor may find 'round these parts are slow stares from stoops, Latin music blaring from boomboxes that never went out of style, and busted fire hydrants blasting thick arcs of water over, down, and across the hot city streets.
As you head East, the flat grids of gum-spotted concrete yield to rolling green hills of an historic and aristocratic air. But planted on the uphill entrance of Highbridge Park is one of the most egalitarian institutions of New York City: the public pool.
The castle-like building is essentially a facade. Pool goers are admitted via gender segregated lines (probably more because of the location of the locker facilities than because of any bias, but still surprising). The path then leads not into the castle, but to an annex that has the classic shoebox sized metal lockers (but magically fits an LL Bean Backpack with a 15.4 inch laptop in it), and then two giant, shaded changing areas with hooks on the walls and absolutely nowhere to lay your stuff or your ass down on anything other than a dry gravel floor.
This design is actually genius, because it means there's no conflict over space whatsoever. People just line up by the walls, wriggle out of their clothes and into suits, spray or slather their babies with sunblock, and hightail it towards the lockers rather than sitting around, talking, or spreading out their wet or dirty possessions, swimgear, or other miscellaneous human residue all over the place. Since no one wants to set anything on the dusty ass ground, that surface is whistle clean, and psychologically soothing.
People pretty much use the indoor space only to take their requisite shower in the dank, tiled area and then rapidly advance towards the two giant pools with concrete bleachers of Roman proportions off to the side. A park employee was cleaning the first pool, but the second pool was in full swing.
As the 5th WPA pool built by Robert Moses and company in 1936, this one is appropriately gigantic. What makes it really stand out, though, other than a bird's eye view over North Manhattan and the presence of a fancy tower overhead, is the magnificent DEEP END.
This deep end is 10 or more feet deep, and is as long and wide as an Olympic sized pool...or larger. I couldn't get over the fact that there was this humumgous deep end, and that anyone and everyone was allowed to cannonball into it...with no one stopping them, which means less shrieking of the lifeguards' redundant (but oh-so-necessary) whistles. I'm not sure this exists anywhere, let alone in a public facility.
The metal rail around the perimeter of the deep section was probably put up there to deter running approaches by kids wanting to get more air before plunging in over people's heads. But everyone jumps anyway. Somehow, kids, teens, and even adults of all shapes and sizes find ways to sit on the tiny space between the metal rail and the pool's edge, spectating, socializing, and sporadically jumping in as the fancy strikes.
Underwater, one can escape from virtually all sound and heat, observing other kids doing the same thing (see, kids aren't ALL loud...), suspended in the liquid at neutral buoyancy as if in a stasis. Far overhead, packs of boys spontaneously race like teams of fish across the width of the pool while onlookers cheer.
Of course, collisions happened a couple times, but it wasn't until I found a couple bruises and scratches later that I even really noticed. Compared to other pools, there weren't many people in the water at all; most of the attendees chose to dwell in the even larger roped off shallow session, wading with toddlers, chickenfighting, and pushing off the reassurance provided by the solid pool floor four feet below the surface.
Additional things to note about this pool are the clearness of the water and, judging by an accidental taste, low salt and chlorine content. Huge plus, even if you don't plan on sipping the water.
I went to this pool as a part of my "go to every pool - and I mean every pool" project...but unlike the case with many others, I would gladly go out of my way on the surprisingly fast A-train to just escape into the fantasmagorical deep end again in this ideal public pool in an idyllic setting. From what I could see, the park would also be worth checking out when the pool shuts and the weather cools. read more