Dining at Estelle is like being invited to a dinner at your best friend's home. If your best friend was Heston Blumenthal. And if Blumenthal's core entourage was replaced with a bearded gang of reformed hipster look alikes.
I mean 'home' in all senses of the word: not just a certain casualness to the ambiance but, well, the fact that a full-size bathtub greets you in the restroom. Yes, it would appear that Estelle Bar and Kitchen was, in a former life, a residence. A meal at Estelle comes with all the trappings of a "rough around the edges" experience you would naturally expect for a meal at a friend's house. No white tablecloths adorn the wooden tables, which are really damn close together. If you didn't know the person sitting next to you when you started the meal, you will by the end of it. No pretense, just serious food, with a bit of Fitzroy grit thrown in.
The food is a molecular gastronomy take on modern Australian. It's a modified tasting menu format. You choose the # of courses, and are asked about dietary restrictions and preferences, but are not given the option to select any specific dishes. The element of surprise is hard at work.
Foams, deconstructions and powders dot the dishes. They're fun, of course, but I have found that Estelle's best courses showcase top-notch Australian ingredients, not techniques. Some of the highlights over two visits include:
- The charcuterie board ($32), a carnivore's delight that offers, among other meaty temptations, wagyu bresoala, felino, Joslito paleta, venison calabrese, rabbit pate and duck liver parfait, and other random accompaniments.
- Duck, duck and duck. We expressed a "strong preference" for duck as one of the main courses. The flavor of the tender meat that we received blew all other ducks we've had out of the water (sorry to the bad pun police). Once with mandarin and potato, once with cherry and beetroot, uniformly spectacular.
- Pork jowl with cauliflower and fig. An exaltation of pig. Insanely favorful meat, fork tender with a crisp skin. I'd huff and puff and blow the entire house-restaurant down to get at another one of these pieces of pig.
- tuna tartare with avocado, daikon and a bonito jelly. Super fresh tuna, with a beautiful smokiness from the bonito jelly that pairs beautifully with the pickled daikon. Japanese-inspired, and wonderful.
Not every dish was a knockout, though. Nothing was terrible, mind you, but more than one dish was just average. An early starting dish featuring heirloom tomatoes that lacked flavor and creativity. A mid-meal salmon course that was middling -- bland and texturally monotonous. A charred corn dish that, quite frankly, should have been sweeter and fresher given it was corn season. For every star, there will be a dish or two that shines less brightly, but the price point is still very reasonable for the quality of the food.
Service was attentive, and most accommodating for dietary restrictions. They're everything a good host is supposed to be, making you feel right at 'home.' read more