Engelberg is a beautiful small town in central Switzerland. Since I was 3 years old, I visit Engelberg Titlis for skiing holidays with my familiy almost every year. I attended ski school for 10 years there and learned everything there. It became like a second home to me In the last years the ski area upgraded their ski lifts and facilities, the main aerial cable cars got renewed (faster way up, shorter wait in the station). The Titlis Rotair ride up is always a pleasure to ride.
Since I was a kid I am amazed by the immense beauty of the scenic landscape there. The view from the all on Titlis is spectacular, especially the south view with the great mountain ridges and glaciers.
During the week its a bit calmer, on saturdays and sundays with sunshine you sadly see how much Titlis has become a mass tourist attraction. If your timing is bad you run into huge crowds of asian, indian or arab tourist groups that block the lifts up.
So my advice: if you visit Titlis on a sunny saturday with fresh powder, be there when the lifts open, and go straight to your favourite slope you want to ski. The slopes start to get bumpy at noon, the famous offpiste areas are full off tracks already at 10 or 11. So be fast if you want powder. The restaurants will be extremly overcrowded at lunchtime so avoid, and watch out they are expensive.
If you want to avoid large crowds of asian tourists, avoid mt. Titlis in the morning and lunchtime, go for the slopes Jochpass and Stand and go back to mt Titlis in the afternoon. There, I love to have a break in the lounge and sit back in one of the couches and just listen to music enjoying the scenic view. I visit to the glacier tunnel is also advisable, but watch out: with ski boots its extremely slippery. As soon as you left the terrasse and walk towards the slopes, the crowds are gone. (Sometimes some funny asian tourists want a pic with you.)
I also realized in the last years the Jochpass slope to be very popular and crowded, so Stand is a bit more calm. From the Restaurants, they all serve delicious food, I really liked Skihütte Stand, Trübsee and Albstübli.
The ski slopes:
For the slope down to the valley (starting at Alpstübli), prepare for a pretty long flat area where you got to push for a while, before the slope get steeper. The slopes after all are, concerning the difficulty pretty medium. The slopes on Jochpass, Stand and the top glacier are mostly medium (red). There is only a hand full of black/steep runs: Laubersgrad (which tens to get icy), the slope under the lift on Jochstock and the slope on Jochpass on the right mountain face. The Rotegg slope (from the glacier down to Stand) can a bit exhausting if you're not in training and can be very bumpy. An offpiste area that I can advice and is really scenic, is the "Laub", which starts on Laubersgrad down to Gerschnialp. Gerschnialp is more of a beginner area. Since the ski area is pretty small, you'll probably have tried out all slopes in one day, so don't rush and enjoy the beauty of this ski area.
Sadly, the ski pass is very expensive, and you don't get refound if weather gets bad or you get sick. Luckily I never encountered that issue.
But after all, its one of the most beautiful places I know, it has turned a bit into a mass tourism spot, but only for the mt. Titlis peak and the off piste areas I think. The slopes themselves are enjoyable. During the week on a sunny day its perfect. Also, try the Titlis Nightride, where they let you ski the slopes on Stand until 11pm. (stay on Trübsee after the closure at 5pm and you don't have to pay extra for the Night Ride at 7pm) read more