Chefs Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmström have really created something special with Gastrologik…read more After bouncing around Europe at various Michelin starred restaurants, they both settled down in Östermalm (for the time being) to open their own fine-dining restaurant. Focusing on sustainability and simplicity in presentation and aesthetic, Gastrologik has without a doubt earned its two Michelin stars and should be a sought after dining destination for anyone visiting Stockholm.
The restaurant I visited was cozy, bright with teal paint and white curtains removing you from the sidewalk and forcing your focus from the windows to the plate. I understand they are going through renovations based on their social media, but I hope the same minimalist aesthetic is retained along with the complete removal from urbanity just beyond the door (I shouldn't act like its a crazy bustling city outside; it is rather quiet and leafy, with the royal library and history museum very nearby).
After a brief walk through the restaurant and meeting the staff and seeing the kitchen, you're led to your seat which has a tiny card explaining the (season-based; in our case, summer) theme of the menu. Any drink pairing you may want is offered and the sommelier and/or server (who was impressively knowledgeable for his apparent age) was terrific a guide to by the glass choices. Then begins the deluge of approximately 19 courses made of sustainable, native Swedish flora and fauna (except for the langoustine which came from Norway, for which they were incredibly apologetic).
Warm towels, warm hönökaka (Swedish flatbread), and a flowery, smokey, fishy pate is served to start, followed by a hay broth, brewed in a what is similar to a coffee siphon, all of which sounds questionable, but provides a pleasant, earthy taste and aroma without any specific overly powerful flavor.
Then began the small bites, starting with chicken liver, meringue and apple, which had a tart but mineral taste as the apple combined with the liver, to form a very complex flavor combination. As is required by every Swedish meal it seems, Kalix Löjrom (essentially salmon roe) was served in a small cup of knackerbrod covered by a beautiful, green, striped top. A riff on what I'd consider a gazpacho (accented again by caviar) followed as a palate cleansing refresher before getting into the larger courses.
The next course was a massive oyster, but the star of the show was the spring peas, crisp, fresh, and almost leafy tasting and topped with what could only be described as a spring pea granita. The entire bite melted in your mouth, fusing greenery and the sea in one delicious bite. The infamous Norwegian langoustine was next, so buttery and soft in texture you could barely notice the delicate cook on the meat. Fresh herbs picked from the garden accompanied the meat, along with a buttery, creamy spread if the decadent meat was not enough for you alone.
Moving more towards (lighter) red wine type dishes, the mushroom tart with miso and lingonberries was beautiful and delicious; I assume that this is how a Swedish forest would taste if eaten in one bite. After a pit stop course of warm sourdough and fresh butter, a scallop, beautifully "scaled" and served in a miso and mussel dashi was next. Grilled beetroot was served next, which, despite the touch of ox marrow in the dish, highlighted the natural sweetness of beets by also pairing them with hazelnuts and plums.
On to the proteins, the courses began with zander (a perch) with broad beans and Swedish ansjovis (sound it out). While delicious, nothing sticks out in my mind beyond the thought "wow that's tasty fish." The quail, on the other hand, while a gamey, delicious piece of moist dark meat, was overshadowed by its side of corn, fermented garlic, and quail heart; probably my favorite aspect out of all components of the meal. The heart, despite thinking it'll be challenging, combined with everything else, might be the best taste I've ever experienced.
First, you get three courses at your table, which began with sea buckthorn, rosehip and malt. Blueberries came next, served with tagetes (apparently a marigold) and cream; a terrific "berries and cream" take, tart and flowery, followed by grilled sponge cake and lovage. All desserts fused together the sweet and earthy in such a surgically precise way that it's hard to describe.
The meal finishes with your removal to the "living room." This is Gastrologik's work around for having a tight reservation schedule in conjunction with the Swedish requirement that you never ask guests to leave; the guest MUST ask you for the check. Enjoy drinks and one more dessert surprise, which I won't ruin here. Guests all seemed to have a strong reaction however.
Eat here. Appreciate the fact you're being ridiculously environmentally friendly while eating some of the best food imaginable. At no point will you be disappointed or bored with any aspect of your meal.
