I had been interested in visiting this place as a preschooler, when I had a keen interest in dinosaurs. That didn't happen. Neither was it convenient when my daughter was young and with similar interests. However, we recently had a reason for a long weekend in Salt Lake City, so we opted to do a couple of days extra to extend the family trip to include Dinosaur National Monument.
We rented a car north of SLC and drove about 3.5 hours to Vernal, where we got a room in a motel. Vernal is the logical spot to stay when visiting this place, unless you want to go the camping route. The last 2 hours of the drive is mostly desolate, with only a couple of towns and the occasional rest stop to break up the drive.
Vernal is about 20 - 25 minutes from the park's western visitors' center. At the time we visited, they had road crews doing drainage repairs on the only road into the park, so there was a brief wait while flagmen coordinated 1-lane traffic. You need to stop at the ranger kiosk to either buy or show your pass to get in.
The visitors' center itself is fairly standard. They have an informative film that runs every 20 minutes to give you some background on the park. Rangers are available to answer questions. They also have a gift shop and some exhibits.
Every 15 - 20 minutes, a shuttle arrives to take passengers up to the quarry wall, the marquee feature of the park. There is also a trail that leads up there, but the ranger advised that it is easier to take the tram up and walk back, which is what we opted to do. The ride up the hill is less than 5 minutes.
The quarry wall was quite interesting. This was originally an open air dig site for an archeologist funded by the Carnegie Foundation. They excavated about 2/3 of the site and sent dinosaur skeletons to a variety of natural history museums all over the world. However, they opted to retain the last 40% of the exposed wall as a permanent exhibit at the site. They later constructed a building around it, which has been repaired and remodeled. The tram lets you off at a ramp, where you walk up 1 floor to the entrance. Inside, you can relax in the air conditioning and check out the huge wall of exposed dinosaur bones. The site was basically created by a drought followed by a flash flood, such that it washed a number of live and dead dinosaur bodies into a 'logjam' at one spot. Even what is left now is quite impressive, though.
The ranger here was very willing to answer questions and discuss things related to the site. You then descend to the ground floor where there are some additional exhibits and alternate views up at the quarry wall. When you exit the building, you can either wait for the shuttle again or descend via the 1.25 mile / 2 km trail. We opted for the walk, which wasn't bad. There were a lot of stairs cut into the trail. You may want to avoid this in extreme heat also. There were a few short side trails along the way with a few exposed fossils (clams, etc.).
One thing to note - there is no cafeteria in this area of the park. If you want to eat, you'll have to bring your own food. We opted for a break to drive back to the Vernal area for lunch. If you do that, you should budget and hour for travel time + whatever time you need for eating.
We returned to the park after our lunch and opted for the scenic drive. You can purchase a guide from the visitors center or from a set along the road. This is worthwhile as it will direct you to the various sites. I think there were about 15 in total. These ranged from scenic overlooks to a spot close to the river, to campgrounds, to several petroglyph sites. We all enjoyed this and thought it was worthwhile. The only caveat I'll offer is about stop #14. This is a longer and steeper hike associated with petroglyphs. If you stop here, take time to find the actual trail marker. It is not obvious, but the correct trail is much easier to get to the cliff face (about 150 feet up, at least) than the alternate trail. The sign is somewhat obscured by bushes so we initially missed it.
There are other points of interest in the eastern side of Dinosaur National Monument, but we did not drive over to see them.
This was a fun and worthwhile stop for me but it is not trivial. There is also some sort of regional air service to the Vernal airport, so you could eliminate 3+ hours of driving by just flying here, but I don't know what the cost is versus a rental car from the SLC area. I'm glad we went, though. read more