While visiting England for a few weeks I found out about Crossness by accident. I was googling some…read morehistory sites, and up popped some photos of a beautiful Victorian cast iron fantasyland, a monument to 19th century civil engineering and the the sewers that transformed London from a stinky disease-ridden hellhole to a large and thriving metropolis. I was delighted to score a ticket for one of their guided tours, which are held once a week and seem to sell out fast. The trek from Central London in the morning by tube/train was very easy, and I got a cab for the short distance from the Abbey Wood station.
This was well worth the trip. The building dates from the 1860s and was nearly lost to the wrecking ball in the 1950s, but has been lovingly restored by many volunteers who continue to work on maintenance, preservation, and expansion. You enter from a separate gate outside the Thames Water facility, and walk up a ramp to a little volunteer-run small-gauge train shuttle. The pumping station looks somewhat nondescript from the outside (especially as some of its original features were removed/scrapped over the years), but once you walk in, you will discover there's no hyperbole to the website's claim that Crossness is a 'cathedral of engineering' - our current-day public works are so half-a** in comparison. Glorious, lavishly ornate painted ironwork and complex machinery, all to handle poo!
We started with a slide presentation and talk, about the Thames, backyard privies/cisterns and cholera outbreaks, the Great Stink of 1858 & the building of the sewers. Then we were split up into groups and guided around the property on a leisurely and thorough tour. Much of the facility has been lovingly restored, as funds permit, and the meticulous attention to detail with matching Victorian paint colors, etc., is commendable. The steam engine wasn't operational when I went, but I can imagine how loud it must be when it's going! The outbuilding that once served as a school for the workers, now contains a number of antique mechanical devices that have been expertly restored, and another is the shop where you can see people working away at metal lathes, etc. There is also an impressive array of antique toilets.
This was well worth the side trip out of town and I would definitely go back; it would be a great family trip, or school visit.
Anyone who doesn't stop to think about how our cities and civilizations deal with human waste, is missing out. Read "The Big Necessity" by Rose George, and "The Ghost Map" by Stephen Johnson, and visit Crossness Pumping Station. Why Bazalgette doesn't have an enormous statue in London I will never understand.