[caveat: I have worked on and off as a freelance journalist. I wrote this piece for TIME OUT MIAMI in 2001]
The Beach has its deco, but the Gables has its Mediterranean architecture. And boy, is it ever proud of it.
It calls itself 'City Beautiful', and with its terracotta roofs, jewel-like colours and lush vegetation, you can't really blame it for being a little smug. Once a tiny Miami suburb, today the Gables makes a spotless borne for 150 multinational companies and 21 consulates and trade offices. It's known for its galleries and theatres; food-wise, it's been pinned as the fine dining capital of south Florida. But, frankly, who cares? For visitors, the main attraction of Coral Gables is its beauty, and, unusually, there is an interesting story behind all that prettiness.
The (own, located to the west and south-west of Little Havana, was the brainchild of quixotic developer George Merrick. The son of a prominent: citrus farmer, Merrick returned to Miami from college in 1911 to find his home town in disarray, growing rapidly with no particular sense of purpose or direction. A man who disliked disorder, Merrick convinced his uncle, artist Denman Fink, and landscape architect Frank Button to help him create a newer, prettier version. Drawing inspiration from the Garden City and City Beautiful movements of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and with designs that incorporated secluded residential enclaves and commercial areas inspired by the architectural styles of 16th-century Spain and Italy, between them they had created one of the nation's first planned communities by tbemid-1920s.
Merrick had envisioned a modem community offering every amenity to its pampered residents in a setting of tranquil loveliness, with wide streets and lush greenery. He created a strange little town - capped with the gabled and tiled rooftops that provided tire root of its name - and coloured it all in with delicate pastel shades that grace even its high-rise office buildings. Merrick's city had touches of unexpected European charm in the form of fountains, plazas, arched entrance gateways, churches and parks; its streets were even given exotic names such as Valencia and Giralda. It was strangely, spectacularly gorgeous, and the country marvelled at it all.
Then Mother Nature scoffed at his plans, hi 1926, a massive hurricane slammed into the Florida coast, destroying thousands of homes, killing dozens of people and leaving Merrick's dream in tatters. While much of the Gables
stood fast in the 100 miles-per-hour winds, the economy in the Miami area was destroyed, and it was hard to convince anybody from outside the area to move to such a dangerous place. Suddenly Memck couldn't pay his bills; by 1928, in a final ignobility, the Coral Gables Commission removed him from the town council of the community he had invented, and he slunk off into a life of anonymity.
Without him there to protect it, some of Coral Gables fell victim to those who didn't seem to understand Merrick's vision, In the modernisation movement that swept the country after World War II, much of his work was disfigured. Some downtown structures were demolished, while others had their original character disguised by ham-fisted renovations.
Things, though, have changed. In 1973, Coral Gables was one of the first cities in Florida to adopt a Historic Preservation Ordinance, establishing a procedure for local landmark designations. Since then, most of the city's buildings - significant either because of their architecture or because of the historic events or important figures associated with them ~ have been designated as landmarks and are protected. The current civic zeal for preserving Coral Gables' bucolic character can, in fact, border on the obsessive. A hefty list of official 'dos' and 'don'ts' applies to everything from replacing window panes to how many guests can park their cars in front of a home for a dinner party without the host having to rent an off-duty police officer to supervise. read more