Asian food is underrepresented in this fair city, especially Chinese food. There are few…read morerestaurants in this category that are worthy of any distinction, like in many cities where Chinese delicacies proliferate with but a few being truly remarkable; and while this might be the case with Fa-Yian, I will rely on sentiment and bias for this 4-star review.
Life as a culinary explorer begins at a young age, and it is here where standards and reference points are established. This Chinese restaurant, with its shouty and ever-present owners, became my reference point for Chinese food and culture isngeneral. It is here where I met the Buddha, the red Chinese lamps, pastel tablecloths, and lazy susans that I thought were unique to this place but are actually commonplace for most Chinese places in Mexico and the US. Through this innocent wonder I recorded the taste of Chow Mein, fried and steamed rice, beef broccoli, fried shrimp and egg rolls, sweet and sour sauce, noodle soup, and the glorious orange chicken. Chinese food became an exotic adventure that could only be found here.
Many years later, on our most recent visit, the food seems ordinary with no extravagance to it. The orange chicken and fried foods are still good and salty and sweet, but it no longer offers that amazement that I experienced in my youth. Still, Fa-Yian holds a special holds a special place in my heart, one whose food might not compare to places we've been to in LA, NY, or even Beijing, but is still a standard to which I will compare all others.
