First, let's get the statistics out of the way. Clapham Junction proudly announces that it is the busiest station in Britain, although it is probably the busiest - in terms of the number trains, at least - in Europe, with around 120 trains an hour off-peak, and around 2,000 per day.
It's used by 12.5 million passengers a year, with an additional 9.5 million changing trains here, making it the UK's busiest interchange, though of course many more pass through on their way to Waterloo and Victoria. (Though that's still peanuts compared to Tokyo Shinjuku station, with over 3 million passengers per DAY).
It is also - by surface area - the largest station in the UK according to the Guinness Book of Records, although this includes quite large areas of track - there are both extensive sidings and a train depot in the angle of the junction. It's actually two stations joined by a subway and a long bridge - platforms 2 to 6 servicing the lines to Richmond (and the service to Willesden Junction) and the rest servicing the lines to Balham out of Victoria and Wimbledon out of Waterloo.
All trains from Waterloo pass through here, although not all stop. All the Brighton and South Coast trains, and local services via Balham from Victoria also pass through, all but the Gatwick express stopping. In addition, the services from Watford and Willesden Junctions on the West London line use platforms 2, 16 and 17.
Although the first line through the area, from Nine Elms in Vauxhall to Southampton, opened in 1838, the station itself was opened as a junction until 1863, when it was built to link the services from Victoria and Waterloo. Expanded over the years, there are now two entrances, both from the subway: one at the north end onto Grant Road, and the small bus station, and the main one through a small shopping centre onto St John's Hill. Both were rebuilt as part of the station redevelopment in the 1980s and have ticket offices. There used to be another entrance from the footbridge onto St John's Hill, but this has been closed.
Architecturally, most of the interest is on the platforms: the wooden buildings from 1863 with their delicate cast-iron decorative canopies decoration on platforms 2-8 on the original 1846 line to Richmond and the fast lines to Wimbledon are the most interesting, and the yellow stock-brick offices on platforms 9 & 10 are well preserved. The best buildings are the old London, Brighton and South Coast Railway Parcel Offices on St John's Hill, in an imposing Edwardian Baroque style, dating from 1910. Needless to say, the new entrance buildings above the shopping centre are hideous - in fact, the station entrance almost seems an afterthought.
As a modern station, it has lots of places to get a sandwich or coffee and lots of trains (and people) to watch, but as somewhere I use regularly, I find it less pleasant as a station. The subway is far too narrow for the use it gets, dank and sometimes the roof leaks. The toilets off the subway are small, smelly and seedy. The footbridge, although wider and pleasanter, involves a longer walk to to platforms 2-6 and lots of steps, and both entrances onto platform 17 are hopelessly narrow. And litter on the tracks seems to be a perennial problem at this station.
In fact, steps are what Clapham Junction is all about: between 28 and 40 to every platform, making it hopelessly inaccessible for wheelchair users, those with pushchairs, prams and heavy luggage. There are no passengers lifts or escalators.
Wandsworth Borough Council has published a ten-point plan to improve facilities at the station, including better services, a link to the underground, reopening the St John's Hill entrance and installing lifts to the platforms.
Two recent saving graces have been the installation of electronic ticket machines by South West Trains (which seem to work), and the new information system, which at least tells you whether trains are on time or not - important for me as I make the run from platform 12 to platform 2 to make my 4 minute connection. before that, there was simply a poster indicating 'Platforms 2 or 17' for my local station, West Brompton, which was about as unhelpful as you could get.
Time for another major makeover, I think. read more